If you were to build up a GenIII truck motor from scratch with these goals in mind...
#1
What would you do?
Let's say you have a 5.3L , 5.7Lor a 6.0L block...
If you were to start from scratch, and try to build up as well-rounded of truck engine for every day use, what would you do?
Would it be possible using the 5.3L or 6.0L block as a base to do the following:
1.) Have a very flat torque curve, but produce at least 300lbs@3000rpm... say have it peak at about 400lbs@4000 or so.
2.) be reliable enough for every day use
3.) Not cost you an arm and a leg to bu ild
What could you do to give you a motor like this? What are the major choices you would have to make to acheive the goals, and what are the trade-offs? What would you think a motor like this would cost?
Let's say you have a 5.3L , 5.7Lor a 6.0L block...
If you were to start from scratch, and try to build up as well-rounded of truck engine for every day use, what would you do?
Would it be possible using the 5.3L or 6.0L block as a base to do the following:
1.) Have a very flat torque curve, but produce at least 300lbs@3000rpm... say have it peak at about 400lbs@4000 or so.
2.) be reliable enough for every day use
3.) Not cost you an arm and a leg to bu ild
What could you do to give you a motor like this? What are the major choices you would have to make to acheive the goals, and what are the trade-offs? What would you think a motor like this would cost?
#2
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,205
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From: as far away from Koonerville as humanly possible
I would use a 2001+ 6.0 engine and basically copy what Nineball did to his LS1, to produce a ~382 cubic inch all-bore 6.0 iron block.
http://users.ev1.net/~ynot_dv8/components.htm
It could probably be done for under $5-6K.
http://users.ev1.net/~ynot_dv8/components.htm
It could probably be done for under $5-6K.
#3
I vote for what 99Redhawk said. I'm kinda in the same boat wanting to know this info. I have a 4.8/5.3 long block (4.8 as built) that I am going to break down soon and rebuild. I'm also looking for sugestions, I want to do it with what I have. But, I also may go for a 5.7 block and reuse my heads and intake with a little head work of course.
#4
99redhawk where can i get the 4and1/8 or the 4and1/4 crank from the largest ive seen for sale is 4"crank thanx for ant help
#5
Lunati makes all the custom cranks..They make both of these sizes all the time..the 6 litre block is sooooooo ripe for a crank..
#6
found this on the net, thought it was pretty cool <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
http://members.fbody.com/phil99ta/LS1SIZE.xls
<img src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" border="0" alt="[hail]" /> c5r bored .3 over w/ a 4.25 crank, heh... THATS some power. how come nobody has done that yet?
[ February 13, 2002: Message edited by: really slow truck ]</p>
http://members.fbody.com/phil99ta/LS1SIZE.xls
<img src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" border="0" alt="[hail]" /> c5r bored .3 over w/ a 4.25 crank, heh... THATS some power. how come nobody has done that yet?
[ February 13, 2002: Message edited by: really slow truck ]</p>
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#8
you have excel right (its an excel workbook)? it worked on me and also on a friend of mine <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0">
#9
what does it mean when it says "Stock Crank Offset ground"??
just out of curiousity how much could u stroke our 5.3L before it would need to be rebalanced and what not, or do u have to do that no matter what?
just out of curiousity how much could u stroke our 5.3L before it would need to be rebalanced and what not, or do u have to do that no matter what?
#10
Offset ground means that the stock crank journals are ground smaller. only one side of the crank is ground into, effectively making the stock crank into a smaller diametered stroker crank. This also requires new rods.
I think anytime you add / replace anything with a different wieght or size, you need to have the assembly balanced.
I think anytime you add / replace anything with a different wieght or size, you need to have the assembly balanced.


