have you got it tuned for the heads? it probably needs more fuel.

 

Justin looked at it and said it was okay. We added a good amount to the VE and MAF tables. I've got PE set to 12:1 too.

 

The shitty thing is I plan on adding a power adder in the spring but I cant do anything if the engine wont run right.

 

Since you were in there already, shoul've replaced the harness
when did the "false" knock start?

 

I did replace the harness with a new one. The false knock has been there ever since I've had EFI live, so I assume it's been going on long before that.

 

fp regulator and pump good?

 

fuel pump brand new OEM in March of this year. Intake/rails, etc are all brand new.

 

Maybe its not "false knock". Now I don't know a whole lot about the subject, so feel free to snipe anything I say as potential causes, I am just thinking out loud. I do know that the knock sensors use what's called a Piezo Electric crystal, and when disturbed in any way above its established parameters, generates a small amount of voltage. Voltage increase is proportionate to intensity of the disturbance (vibration, knock, hitting the block with a hammer, motor torquing and exhaust making contact, etc...

1. Is it possible that one of the injectors is partially clogged, causing that cylinder to go lean and not have the same intensity during combustion?

2. Exhaust tubing making contact with chassis under WOT? This can be a royal PITA to find, I spent weeks under my TA chasing this issue.

3. Heavy carbon buildup in CC, on valves, or piston face, superheating and causing detonation?

4. Valve float (not very common anymore, but still possible.

5. Broken or sagging motor mount(s)?

 

Damn! what else is done to the engine? agressive cam?

 

just some ported 317s w/68cc chambers. I'm not sure on the exact compression but I think it's around 10.6:1