I got my heads today.....
#1
First...MAJOR props to gonzo 6.0......Thank you for the quick shipping and the very fair price !!
Second.....is this the exhaust port that is considered the "O" port ??, because it's alot more of an OVAL than an "O", it is definitly different than the "O" port on the LS1, LS6 heads and the "D" port that is found on some LQ4 aluminum heads. Does anyone see any reason why it can't be ported out to match the exhaust ports on those heads
here are a few of pics of the heads for your enjoyment......take a real close look at the exhaust port and tell me if that is the "O" port




Big Tex....did you want pics of the interior of the ports too ???.....if you do I can take those and post them here later
Second.....is this the exhaust port that is considered the "O" port ??, because it's alot more of an OVAL than an "O", it is definitly different than the "O" port on the LS1, LS6 heads and the "D" port that is found on some LQ4 aluminum heads. Does anyone see any reason why it can't be ported out to match the exhaust ports on those heads
here are a few of pics of the heads for your enjoyment......take a real close look at the exhaust port and tell me if that is the "O" port




Big Tex....did you want pics of the interior of the ports too ???.....if you do I can take those and post them here later
#3
Originally Posted by 1BADHD
Yes, those are the "O" ports. You can see how much bigger the manifolds are compared to the port. Seems like a waste if you ask me.
#4
Its not how big the ports are that matters. Exhaust velocity is whats important, so getting the highest flow from a smaller port will yeild the best results.
Sure, the exterior of the intake port looks the same (it has to since it mates up with the same intake manifold), but on the inside, the shape and flow properties are different than the LS6 heads. If you had both heads in front of you, you could feel the difference with your fingers comparing the internal ports of the heads. Those exhaust ports look exactly like LS1 heads.
Here are some decent pics of a set of 01+ 6L heads I had ported for the escalade project last year. On the intake ports, take a look at all of the internal contours. Those are different on a LS1 type head.
Sure, the exterior of the intake port looks the same (it has to since it mates up with the same intake manifold), but on the inside, the shape and flow properties are different than the LS6 heads. If you had both heads in front of you, you could feel the difference with your fingers comparing the internal ports of the heads. Those exhaust ports look exactly like LS1 heads.
Here are some decent pics of a set of 01+ 6L heads I had ported for the escalade project last year. On the intake ports, take a look at all of the internal contours. Those are different on a LS1 type head.
#5
I was kinda jokin' around about the "waste" being removed.....I understand exhaust velocity and flow theory (I've actually hand-ported a set of SBC heads before under supervision from a very experienced head porter) and realize that the smallest port with the largest flow is the best way to go on a street-driven head
I did some searching for pictures of LS1/LS6 heads online and I understand what you mean about the internal intake port shapes being different.....the Iron heads also have a completely different internal intake port shape than even the aluminum LQ4's (according to the pictures I have seen anyway...narrower at the top than the others)
Since a head swap isn't all that hard (to me anyway) and given the fact that I HAVE been considering the Aluminum LQ4's due to all of the convincing that was forced down my throat I MAY try to hand-port these heads myself (Stage I isn't real hard..it's mostly cleanup and polishing) and see what comes of it...if they fall on thier face I can always swap to the Aluminum heads and make all of you guys happy.
I did some searching for pictures of LS1/LS6 heads online and I understand what you mean about the internal intake port shapes being different.....the Iron heads also have a completely different internal intake port shape than even the aluminum LQ4's (according to the pictures I have seen anyway...narrower at the top than the others)
Since a head swap isn't all that hard (to me anyway) and given the fact that I HAVE been considering the Aluminum LQ4's due to all of the convincing that was forced down my throat I MAY try to hand-port these heads myself (Stage I isn't real hard..it's mostly cleanup and polishing) and see what comes of it...if they fall on thier face I can always swap to the Aluminum heads and make all of you guys happy.
#6
Hey Al, don't change because of me. I just wanted you to understand that the base as-cast aluminum head on the LQ4/LQ9 is different than the iron head. I personally can't prove they flow more, but according to posters with a flowbench, the 6L heads flow as well as LS6 heads to the .500 lift range. LS1 style heads fall behind real early.
But a stage 1 LS1 type head should outflow a non-ported aluminum 6L head. So by you porting the iron head, you should have more power than just installing a set of alum heads, and you'll come out cheaper.
If you think you might do another head swap, go ahead and invest in some reuseable head bolts or studs.
But a stage 1 LS1 type head should outflow a non-ported aluminum 6L head. So by you porting the iron head, you should have more power than just installing a set of alum heads, and you'll come out cheaper.
If you think you might do another head swap, go ahead and invest in some reuseable head bolts or studs.
#7
No worries Richard, I understood what you saying and how you meant it....as Slowverado said in another post "there's a reason GM took the iron heads off these motors".....
As everyone seems to think of these heads as "throw-away" I am seriously considering doing the P&P on these myself just to see what kind of gains can be achieved on the iron heads with a little work...cast isn't as hard to work on as everyone thinks it is and damage control is easier due to the harder material (a slipped bit won't destroy a port...it'll only leave a scratch), I figure a good smoothing of the ports, cleanup of any casting flash and odd shapes, and polishing of the exhaust ports and chanbers should net me a healthy gain in air-flow (the exhaust ports look AWFUL on these things....bumps and ridges EVERYWHERE)....besides, if I screw it up I'm not out that much money and it's a learning experiencce that may end up with great results
I also plan on using ARP head-studs because in the future I KNOW I will be doing another head-swap...to what I don't know but there WILL be another one eventually
As everyone seems to think of these heads as "throw-away" I am seriously considering doing the P&P on these myself just to see what kind of gains can be achieved on the iron heads with a little work...cast isn't as hard to work on as everyone thinks it is and damage control is easier due to the harder material (a slipped bit won't destroy a port...it'll only leave a scratch), I figure a good smoothing of the ports, cleanup of any casting flash and odd shapes, and polishing of the exhaust ports and chanbers should net me a healthy gain in air-flow (the exhaust ports look AWFUL on these things....bumps and ridges EVERYWHERE)....besides, if I screw it up I'm not out that much money and it's a learning experiencce that may end up with great results
I also plan on using ARP head-studs because in the future I KNOW I will be doing another head-swap...to what I don't know but there WILL be another one eventually
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#8
Originally Posted by Yelo
No worries Richard, I understood what you saying and how you meant it....as Slowverado said in another post "there's a reason GM took the iron heads off these motors".....
As everyone seems to think of these heads as "throw-away" I am seriously considering doing the P&P on these myself just to see what kind of gains can be achieved on the iron heads with a little work...cast isn't as hard to work on as everyone thinks it is and damage control is easier due to the harder material (a slipped bit won't destroy a port...it'll only leave a scratch), I figure a good smoothing of the ports, cleanup of any casting flash and odd shapes, and polishing of the exhaust ports and chanbers should net me a healthy gain in air-flow (the exhaust ports look AWFUL on these things....bumps and ridges EVERYWHERE)....besides, if I screw it up I'm not out that much money and it's a learning experiencce that may end up with great results
I also plan on using ARP head-studs because in the future I KNOW I will be doing another head-swap...to what I don't know but there WILL be another one eventually
As everyone seems to think of these heads as "throw-away" I am seriously considering doing the P&P on these myself just to see what kind of gains can be achieved on the iron heads with a little work...cast isn't as hard to work on as everyone thinks it is and damage control is easier due to the harder material (a slipped bit won't destroy a port...it'll only leave a scratch), I figure a good smoothing of the ports, cleanup of any casting flash and odd shapes, and polishing of the exhaust ports and chanbers should net me a healthy gain in air-flow (the exhaust ports look AWFUL on these things....bumps and ridges EVERYWHERE)....besides, if I screw it up I'm not out that much money and it's a learning experiencce that may end up with great results
I also plan on using ARP head-studs because in the future I KNOW I will be doing another head-swap...to what I don't know but there WILL be another one eventually
#9
Thats the right attitude. Plus, you can just keep your stock iron heads to reinstall before you get rid of the truck. That way if you have a set of expensive ported heads you can get them off without having to round up replacements.
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