Well my truck did the same thing with the 160* thermo I changed the fan turn on temp and helped a bit more. Made a HUGE difference when I stuck in a 3/4 ton radiator...temps are considerably lower now with that piece.

I thought I didn't burp the system correctly either but I tried it like 10 times to no avail and figured the stock radiator could not keep the temps down in Texas heat with the A/C on.

 

Hodgeee: I am going by the needle on the gauge cluster.
I'm not buying a Predator, is ATAP fine?
What does everyone recommend to just read codes, temps, etc.?

 

I tried both the 180 and the 160.The 180 would go right back to stock temp of 200.Traded it out for a 160 and it runs 180 all the time except when bumper to bumper traffic in 90 degree heat with ac on it will sometimes reach abot 195,but as soon as I start cruising again it goes back to 180.Even though you have 160 open temp water in aluminum heads stay about 20 degrees hotter.That is why you notice it doesn't take as long for aluminum heads to heat up as do cast ones.PS NEVER RUN ALUMINUM HEADS HOT OR THEY WILL BE HISTORY,PULL OVER IMMEDIATELY!

 

I would not recommend the predator with the problems that I have had, and how much it cost me. I like the live diagnostic tool that it has though, so that I can monitor things like that. I have also seen a computer monitoring meter, and code reset tool for our trucks for about $150, but I can't remember where the hell I saw it at?!

 

I would not recommend the predator with the problems that I have had, and how much it cost me. I like the live diagnostic tool that it has though, so that I can monitor things like that. I have also seen a computer monitoring meter, and code reset tool for our trucks for about $150, but I can't remember where the hell I saw it at?!