HELP brake bleeding question
#1
i changed out my rear pads today. the stockers looked low of life with the exception of one pad, it was completed dead. i also drained all the old fluid out by pumping the brake pedal and replaced it with some high temp fluid. when i took it for a test drive the brakes stopped much much better and there was no more hop in the rear end. but my pedal travels way too much. it goes almost to the floor before it stops. but it does stop really well once i get there. could it be air trapped in the lines that cause that and if so, how do i get the air out? i am not a brake person at all.....
#2
Yes, if while you were replacing the fluid, you let the master cylinder go all the way down, you have air in the lines. Start bleeding from the farthest wheel from the m.c. and end with the closest (rear pass, rear driver, front pass, front driver). There are several way to bleed the brakes. The first way requires two people, one person pumping the brake pedal while the other loosens the bleeder till no air comes out then tighten it back. The others require special tools but can be done by yourself. A product called speedbleeders can be used which have a check valve in them so you can loosen them, go pump your brakes, then go back and tighten the up. The other is a hand pump you hook up to suck the air out of the lines. Which ever way you decided to do it, make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level in the m.c. You never want the fluid level to go all the way down so it will suck air, then you have to start all over again.
#3
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From: Pueblo de Nuestra Señora la Reina de los Ángeles de la Porciúncula
Bleed the system again in the order that Bigkid said. Mine did the same thing when I replaced the lines and bled the system, but it did seem to get tighter after a few days. I bled them again and they are fine now, tighter and it brakes a lot better than before.
#5
ok, i got it done. what a world of difference new fluid and new brakes make. now my rear end don't hop up and down when you mash the brake pedal. btw my rears were wore completly out. the fronts still look good. i figured the fronts would be bad and the rears be good.
#6
Originally Posted by Chingon
Bleed the system again in the order that Bigkid said. Mine did the same thing when I replaced the lines and bled the system, but it did seem to get tighter after a few days. I bled them again and they are fine now, tighter and it brakes a lot better than before.
You are wrong, lab testing shows that it is impossible for you to stop better than with the stock rotors. :spy:
#7
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From: Pueblo de Nuestra Señora la Reina de los Ángeles de la Porciúncula
Originally Posted by LOW2000
You are wrong, lab testing shows that it is impossible for you to stop better than with the stock rotors. :spy:
HAHAH...oh no..not again...is this Trey in disguise?
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