Heads/Cam going in....it's an unusual combo so I've got a few questions
#11
Originally Posted by Flyer
Yes .. it mattered about the heads. There's another thread in here I just saw about head gaskets leaking. Acually I think it was a post by Moregrip in my thread about pulling the heads off. Maybe that will explain what the deal is, but if the ones coming off are center bolt, then you should be fine, either way, check out that post.
Those springs should be fine. The 918's aren't overly stiff, but they aren't by any means a light spring. If you were running 921's (or whatever Comp's dual spring is) or something, then I'd say they might be a little much, but those should be fine.
Those springs should be fine. The 918's aren't overly stiff, but they aren't by any means a light spring. If you were running 921's (or whatever Comp's dual spring is) or something, then I'd say they might be a little much, but those should be fine.
#12
My research told me (and anyone who knows me knows that not many people do more research than I do prior to a purchase) that the 918 is one of the best all-around springs on the market for aftermarket cam swaps. What I was told directly was that unless you go higher than the rated lift on them, they are okay....that using 918's for a smaller-lift cam is just fine. And I was also told by my source at Comp to NOT use the 915's in anything - that any application calling for the 915's should get the 918's instead.
Oh, BTW, I have absolutely no valvetrain noise with my 918's, as some others have reported here and in the F-body section.
Oh, BTW, I have absolutely no valvetrain noise with my 918's, as some others have reported here and in the F-body section.
#13
Originally Posted by Naked AV
(and anyone who knows me knows that not many people do more research than I do prior to a purchase)
#14
Originally Posted by Yelo
I guarantee that I do.....I've been looking for over two years at different cams, I can probably tell you more about different cam lobes than you would EVER want to know.....I just don't know **** about the springs for them apparantly

any other questions Yelo?
#15
Originally Posted by Yelo
XLR8NSS: Compression is going to be 10.4:1...a bit higher that I was hoping for but not too bad
Otherwise, I think its a good combo. Even better since they aren't iron heads going back on.
#16
BigTex: What is the bore size of the stock gasket ??, and the thickness ??....everytime I calculate it I come up with 10.41:1. I calculated it as a 4.100 bore gasket that is .065 thick, and AFAIK the piston comes out of the hole around ~.007.......all that together adds up to 10.4:1
Oh, and BTW....the stock LS1 chamber is 66.67cc
And NO wisecracks about the iron heads there buddy
Oh, and BTW....the stock LS1 chamber is 66.67cc
And NO wisecracks about the iron heads there buddy
#18
Stock multilayer steel gaskets are 4.040 bore and .054 thick. I used a -7cc dish on the pistons , and -.008 out of the hole.
I built a little spreadsheet a while back so I could just plug in several variables and get the correct CR. It accounts for bore, stroke, dish, piston deck height, chamber, gasket bore, gasket thickness.
This is a simple comparison:
You are at 9.4:1 with a 71.33 chamber now. By dropping 4-5 ccs in the chamber, you won't gain a full point. For instance, the LQ4 @ 9.4:1 has a 7cc dish. The LQ9 @ 10.x:1 has flat tops. That 7cc only accounts for roughly .6 to .7 of a compression point.
I built a little spreadsheet a while back so I could just plug in several variables and get the correct CR. It accounts for bore, stroke, dish, piston deck height, chamber, gasket bore, gasket thickness.
This is a simple comparison:
You are at 9.4:1 with a 71.33 chamber now. By dropping 4-5 ccs in the chamber, you won't gain a full point. For instance, the LQ4 @ 9.4:1 has a 7cc dish. The LQ9 @ 10.x:1 has flat tops. That 7cc only accounts for roughly .6 to .7 of a compression point.
#19
Originally Posted by Yelo
and moregrip.........ah, nevermind.....I like you too much to say it 

If you need help, let me know, that's alot of work to do by yourself.
On a serious note, I would consider studs for your heads, as Flyer said. On my 67 Impala SS I had studs for everything including the thermostat housing, needless to say, I prefer studs to bolts when applicable. Besides, when you get the twins fired up, you might need them, or want them
#20
Another reason for the studs is that you thread 'em in and then - voila - more wear and tear on the threads in the block from torqueing and loosening of the head bolts.
But they are more expensive and cheap is cool.
But they are more expensive and cheap is cool.






