so i bought this truck then bought gibson headers for it. went to put them on and found out there are trhee bolts broke off in the heads two on driver and one on the pass. both bolts closest to the fire wall and the front bolt on driver. how can i get these out? im pulling the heads during my cam swap.

 

Best way is to pull the heads. Are you switching to long tubes? If not it would be a waste of money. Ive read guys still bolting on headers with whatever remain bolts are left unbroke. Some missing 2 bolts per side, and still report no leaks. My lq9 has 2 broke on the driver side, but its quiet as a whistle. There for I have no plans for headers in my future untill I pull the heads, and extract, which I could have done b4 the swap. The stock headers arent restrictive in my book at all, its the wye pipe with the rest of piping the clogs it up. Which is why I just drop mine in, the way it was.

Im planing a nasty exhaust setup which will include the stock manifolds, and I will put it up against most people. It consists of 3" piping for the wye pipe, or the Xover, no cats, limited turnns, nothing less than 45*, corsa tourning muffler dumped under the truck. Its really not hard to make these engine breathe, without removing the stock manifolds or having to add headers. The stock manifolds shorties work wonders when producing low end torque.

If your building a high horsepower animal, reving to 7K then yes, headers with huge primaries being long tube would be better. It will also make your lowend torque sucks ***. Terrible for a truck IMO.

Its also options as porting the stock manifolds as well, to retain lowend torque. All shorty headers are good with producing great tq, and stock manifold is good IMO.

 

If there is not enough material outside the hole to grab, chisel, etc. then there are a number of products like ez-out to be found at automotive or tool places. If heads are off and you have a bench drill, you can drill them thin, then chisel or pick the rest out. You can hand drill, but you have to be extra careful or you are going to be posting on how to make new threads options. Clean up the the threads with tap afterward. Any half decent machine shop should be able to take them right out and clean them up for a reasonable price. You might also look at upgrading or reworking your heads as well while you have them out. Lots of options. good luck and cheers.

 

Just had this happen to me last week when I put headers on. My drivers front and rear and second from rear pass.
For the front I drilled with 3 diff bits and used an easy out. Took a while but worked. For the other two I had just enough sticking out I put a nut on the half thread sticking out, welded the nut with a mig welder to the bolt and gave it a hit with a hammer when the bolt was hot and used the nut with a wrench to remove the bolt.
I had to take off the heat shields to get enough room to get my mig in there to weld it up. I also had my front wheels off and my inner fender wells off too. This helped alot. Good luck with the removal.

As the others said, stay with the stock manifolds or go with long tubes. Shorties are for looks.

 

I've seen many people have good results using the nut and welding it to what was left of the bolt and wrenching it out. The only problem is lack of space as sinr98 said. Im assuming this is on a NBS truck, since the heads are aluminum this should work fine.

 

thanks yall im planning on tearing into it next weekend ill post how well it goes