Head swap - need pointers
Oct 27, 2018 | 06:15 PM
#1
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From: Somewhere north of 285, south of 985.
Head swap - need pointers
As the title states, I’m swapping heads.
I’m looking for pointers as far as removal, cleaning block surface, reinstallation.
Anything I should or shouldn’t do? I’ve got all my parts. I know I’ve got to blow the coolant out of the bolt holes.
I’m also not worried about exhaust manifold bolts breaking. I’ve got headers and ARP hardware in there right now.
Thanks
I’m looking for pointers as far as removal, cleaning block surface, reinstallation.
Anything I should or shouldn’t do? I’ve got all my parts. I know I’ve got to blow the coolant out of the bolt holes.
I’m also not worried about exhaust manifold bolts breaking. I’ve got headers and ARP hardware in there right now.
Thanks
Oct 27, 2018 | 07:04 PM
#2
It's pretty straight forward. I like to use those roloc yellow/green pads to clean the surface of aluminum or iron because it won't eat the metal away.
You can also take a old head bolt and cut a big slot in it all the way down the threads. Then use that to clean out the threads in the block.
You can also take a old head bolt and cut a big slot in it all the way down the threads. Then use that to clean out the threads in the block.
Oct 27, 2018 | 07:17 PM
#3
The thread chasers for head bolts are surprisingly cheap. I also use 3m bristles. They are like ketchup for people who like to restore stuff. There is plenty of room to change the heads in a truck. It is very easy.
Oct 28, 2018 | 06:06 AM
#4
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Heads are off. Took me a couple of hours taking my time.
Lessons learned:
1. Driver side is a little harder
2. Take the bottom head bolts loose first before removing the header bolts
3. Steering shaft needs to come loose
4. Take the spark plugs out of the driver side
Now to clean it up and put it back together. I’ve got eBay headstuds and engine assembly line. Any pointers on those?
Lessons learned:
1. Driver side is a little harder
2. Take the bottom head bolts loose first before removing the header bolts
3. Steering shaft needs to come loose
4. Take the spark plugs out of the driver side
Now to clean it up and put it back together. I’ve got eBay headstuds and engine assembly line. Any pointers on those?
Oct 29, 2018 | 12:17 AM
#5
Don't torque the ebay head studs to ARP torques specs or use ARP ultratorque on them. Might seem obvious to some, but it wasn't to me at that point and I broke a couple. Use oil or whatever the seller recommends and torque to their specs.
Oct 29, 2018 | 03:56 PM
#6
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I scrapped the studs. I got some new TTY bolts instead.
It runs, it’s quiet under the hood. So far all I done is burp it.
I was worried to start. After I fired it up it was smoking. I did a quick google and the general consensus is that it’s normal after a HG replacement.
It runs, it’s quiet under the hood. So far all I done is burp it.
I was worried to start. After I fired it up it was smoking. I did a quick google and the general consensus is that it’s normal after a HG replacement.
Oct 30, 2018 | 06:47 AM
#7
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From: Somewhere north of 285, south of 985.
So, first driving impressions.
Holy fking **** ***** what a difference. Off-idle is tons better and it doesn't seem to suffer on the big end one bit.
Fueling - the pcm is pulling 5-10% in non-PE mode. I was surprised at this. I thought I would have to add fuel.
Pinging - had a little pinging. I pulled some timing.
Fuel mileage - much better than before. Before I was getting 11-12 @ 80'ish and now I am getting 15 @ 80'ish.
It definitely doesn't feel lethargic anymore.
Holy fking **** ***** what a difference. Off-idle is tons better and it doesn't seem to suffer on the big end one bit.
Fueling - the pcm is pulling 5-10% in non-PE mode. I was surprised at this. I thought I would have to add fuel.
Pinging - had a little pinging. I pulled some timing.
Fuel mileage - much better than before. Before I was getting 11-12 @ 80'ish and now I am getting 15 @ 80'ish.
It definitely doesn't feel lethargic anymore.
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