I realize there are plenty of threads about cam installs.....point noted. I have done a search on here and ls1tech without much help. I have most of the parts ordered but can you help me with the stuff I don't have?

here are my questions-

How big can the heads be on the pen magnets?
What is the part number for the spare retainer locks?
Do I need to do the front seal for my 99 engine and what's the part number?
Any other gaskets that I HAVE to have and their part numbers?


Big Stuff-
Cam- TR224
Springs- Comp 918s
Pushrods- Comp 7.4's
Retainers-Comp Titanium(Not needed)

Smaller Stuff-
x2 AIR tube gaskets GMPN 12553617
x2 Water pump gaskets GMPN 12559271
1 front engine seal (1x GMPN 12561244
2-3 spare locks (GMPN 10166345)
3-4 spare retainer locks in case you lose some(Part number?)

Tools for install-
Spring Compressor
3 Jaw Puller
5/16's metal rods
compression testor fitting
16 pen magnets

Extra stuff-
Oil
Oil Filter
Dexcool
Locktite


I figure this could save alot of people some time, I just need those 4 questions of mine answered. Thanks.

 

You dont need to replace any gaskets, I have a bunch of spare locks if you lose one while doing your swap, the head of the magnet should be about the size of pushrod, you can get them at Autozone. I recommend the rod method to hold hte lifters up, too many people break the head of a pen magnet off.

 

For some cheap insurance, you can get a complete cam swap kit from Scoggin Dickey (sponsor) for about $62 (just checked it out...it was less than $40 back when I did my cam swap)...it includes valve cover gaskets, timing cover gasket, crank seal, water pump gaskets, and a new crank bolt. http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/2721...3-LS1-LS6-.htm

 

yea i know alot of people don't replace the gaskets. Call me cheap, but I think I might not replace them either. The 5.3 will be coming out when the 4l60e dies and a 6.0/t56 is the new idea.

As far as used the rod method. I did a bunch of research on it (some from Colby 04 and others) and they don't totally hold the lifters up. I have seen pics of a guy who used 5/16th rods and one ALMOST fell and he had to use a pen magnet to get it back.

Just curious 1slow01z71, when are you doing silver-mod-o's cam swap? I wouldn't mind coming over to check stuff out.

 

Remove all the pushrods, timing chain and cam gear. Then just give the cam a good spin a few times. The lifters will stay up. Then just swap cams. It's kind of like Russian Roulette, but it works.

Jim

 

If you do the swap with the block cold (like 18 hours cold or so) you can just spin the crank and the lifters will lock into the built in retaining gizmatics chevy put there as Jim says.

 

well the problem with that is that i'm having 2 local f-body guys helping me and I'll be driving over to their house.