Well, now that I have your attention, a friend of mine is giving me his cam, he quit spraying so he changed to a more wild cam. Tell me if you think it would work, and the pros and cons if you know. My mods are in the sig.

99-224/227-114Thunder Racing Custom Split Pattern Camshaft for Nitrous/Supercharger applications- 224/227 .563/.569 114 LSA (This cam will check in the 226 range on the exhaust lobe.) 2200-6800 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. Automatic cars require computer tuning and it is recommend for optimum results on manual transmission cars. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended.


What do you think? Should I do it or now? I will have to get the springs of course, but what else would I need? Would it hurt me down low or ET by adding w/o stall?

 

That's a little more cam than you need with your setup,but with a stall,some longtube headers and a creative tune it could be a real beast.I don't think you'd like the cam without at least a 3000 stall and a tune.

 

I plan on getting a tune from allen, especially if I get that cam. What about low end? Where do you think it would make power? Would it kill the low end? It is free, so is it not worth the install? Should I try and trade it for something else? I cannot afford a stall for a while, so I dont want to screw myself.

I also got a very cheap set of pacesetter shorties for the truck which will be going on as soon as they come back from tennessee (my girlfriend's uncle is VP at a coatings place) they are getting a high temp coat since that black paint sucks bad!

 

No that cam it too big for you, give it to me. Thank you, drive thru' LOL

But seriously, I'd prolly advance it 4* and get a fat stall too. Your truck prolly won't get with it until 3000+ RPM

 

If you run the cam about 4 degrees advanced you'll probably have enough lowend power.I'm thinking that WOT performance would be fine running the cam straight up,but the 4 degrees of advance would make it more drivable off boost at part throttle.Invest in an adjustable timing set and break out the degree wheel and you'll probably be ok.

 

My 226/.535/112 doesn't really feel strong till 4k rpm. Right around 4.5k it starts taking off like abat out of hell and pulls hard past 6.5k.

I agree it may be a bit big if unless you are going for an all out max effort.

 

I don't think you would be happy at all with it on a stock converter. I know I wouldn't be.

If you decide to get rid of it I would be willing to trade out for my cam a 216/220 low lift on a 114+2. I would still be a little weary of putting it on a stock converter but with some boost on it I think it would be ok. I know it would do better than that one.

 

How much lift is low lift? How is the idle? what is the +2? Would I still need to change the springs or have an adjustable timing set?

 

Comp Cams LS1 Camshaft - 216 / 220 .525 / .532 114 LSA 1300-6300 RPM Power Band. Computer Tuning Required with automatic transmission cars. One of our most popular cams...This has proven to be a very well balanced camshaft in that it makes good power across the entire RPM range. Works well with Crane 1.8 Roller Rockers.

That's the cam. The +2 is the advance that's ground into the cam. On the RADIX it doesn't really have a dead spot, you should get it tuned a little though because it's gonna want to pull all the way up to 6500 solid. I will PM you a link for a sound clip of the cam at idle with the truck warmed up.

 

How much power do you guys think I would lose down low by going with the above cam (in the first post, not Flyer's cam)