Fastest naturally aspirated 5.3?
Oct 11, 2004 | 10:33 PM
#22
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Joined: Jul 2004
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Originally Posted by BigKID
I think I should be able to pull some low 13's out of my setup with a new CAI (running a stock box currently), a little more tunning, good air and a sticky track. I pulled off a 13.80@97 with high 1.9 60's last weekend in Montgomery in mid 90* temps which is better than my previous best in 40* weather. I believe it wont be long till there are several NA 5.3 in the low 13 to high 12 range around here.
Not a "bolt on" s/c or n2o kit?
That is fast for bolt ons.... please give more info on that setup!
I am taking this truck to the track friday.... I HOPE! I have been wanting to run it for a while, and just barely missed a chance to run a couple weeks ago. The time is gonna suck because I have no traction. I'm looking into a powertrax or something like that but I'm just about flat broke. I'm hoping with that I'll hit around 13.3-13.4 times!
Tell me about this shortbelt mod also. What all is it bypassing, the a/c and powersteering? What belt do you guys use for that.... I mean... like a part number, or even a width and llength of the "shortbelt." With that info, I can track it down b/c I work @ autozone.
Oct 11, 2004 | 11:10 PM
#23
TRhat 5.3 will be good up to 6600-6700 without anything done to the bottom end.
I really don't think balancing the bottom end would be worth it, at that point you may as well build you another motor and go with something worth while.
I really don't think balancing the bottom end would be worth it, at that point you may as well build you another motor and go with something worth while.
Oct 11, 2004 | 11:24 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by Flyer
TRhat 5.3 will be good up to 6600-6700 without anything done to the bottom end.
I really don't think balancing the bottom end would be worth it, at that point you may as well build you another motor and go with something worth while.
I really don't think balancing the bottom end would be worth it, at that point you may as well build you another motor and go with something worth while.
Are you saying that a 5.3L is good for 6600-6700?
To me that seems to high because alluminum LS1s are revving to what, 6800 or so stock? This is with a rotating assembly that is lighter than our iron components.
If you are correct and the LM7 can reliabily rev to 6500+, then why am I shifting at 5900 or 6000... i mean, my tranny is good to like 7700? I'm cutting that LS6 cam off by about 400 rpm right now, and I wonder if I am going to REALLY be asking for it to have Herter raise that shiftpoint to 6500. I am just soooo scared of spinning a bearing or something like that. I could probobly rebuild it myself, but I don't need that cost right now....
Also, @ what RPM should I see valve float w/ ls6 cam, springs, pushrods, and retainers...
Oct 12, 2004 | 04:15 AM
#26
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 379
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From: Houston, TX
Has anyone tried just running on the battery and not on the alternator? Would that truck even stay alive long enough to do a run?
Also, when you blueprint a engine. They are checking the block for any imperfections right or is that honing the engine?
Also, when you blueprint a engine. They are checking the block for any imperfections right or is that honing the engine?
Oct 12, 2004 | 08:13 AM
#27
Originally Posted by ohohsilverado
Just so everyone knows can you give us a little more specifics on your mods the time you were running 12.8x's. what stall, cam, heads,springs,tires,intake, exhaust. and how was it the yank hurt your et. lets us know man. we are all interested.
Bryan
Bryan
