just a few more questions guys...

1. head bolts are TTY right ??....means I "should" have a dial guage when doing the final torque huh ??....I WILL be using new bolts too

2. the crank pulley bolt is also TTY and should be replaced right ??...what is the PN for that bolt ??

3. any point in using head studs instead of head bolts ??....the price is pretty close between the two kits so if there is any advantage at all I'll use the stud kit

4. I am planning of studding the exhaust just to save myself alot of grief in the future with loose and broken bolts, for the time being I am using the stock manifolds but will be switching to LT's when I can afford them.....will I be able to get the LT's on over the exhaust studs ??

5. I'm having the cam ground straight up and I am cosidering using an adjustable cam gear.....is there any one brand that is preferred over others ??


I'll probably be adding more to the list as I think of them.

TIA...Al

 

Hello Yelo.

1. Most install guides have you torqueing the head bolts with a preset amount of turns, then checking with a torque wrench.

2. Yes, the crank bolt is TTY. I'm reusing my crank bolt.

3. The studs are reuseable. But the bolts are cheaper. I bought my last set from Scoggin Dickey: www.sdpc2000.com

4. You should be able to. I've never had an issue with my stock exhaust manifold bolts. I've had my headers on ans off several times and have reused the stock bolts without leaks.

5. I think the rollermaster chain is the best for the price. Plus, its adjustable in smaller increments than alot of the other chains. Once again, my last one came from Scoggin Dickey.

****
You will want to get a new set of waterpump gaskets. My old ones fell apart when I removed the pump. People say to replace your front cover crank seal, but I didn't this last time and have had no issues, but it was a new truck. Like I said, I reused my crank bolt.

 

Long Time No See BigTex !!

Thanks for the info !!

As for the exhaust manifold bolts...it's probably just my bad luck but EVERY friggin time I try to remove those bolts on ANY motor at least one breaks on me....I'm just tring to side-step Mr. Murphy this time and fix a problem before it happens

 

1) If you get ARP head bolts then you only need the torq wrench.
2) Yes. I believe Texas Speed, Thunder Racing & Tbyrne have them listed.
3) For advantages, try checking ARP's website, they explain the advantages.
http://www.arp-bolts.com/media/pdf_files/headstuds.pdf
Disadvantage besides price would be making sure you have enough clearance to be able to remove the heads up and over the studs in your engine compartment. Should not be a problem in a stock truck engine compartment.
4) I have tried using ARP header studs. They look cool and really help in aligning the header gaskets and holding them in place, but getting the LT in on the passenger side, between the motor and the AC eqpt is really a PIA. I would use bolts instead. I think that some of the bolt holes may not be precisely square & parallel w/ each other. The studs will only make any misalignment worse. I had trouble getting the header over the studs and then had trouble getting the studs into the header bolt holes. Stick w/ bolts.
5) Most of the sponsors carry reputable adj timing chains.

Good Luck