rel3rd

iTrader: (42)

That outta make a few people happy. Thanks for posting the link.

No doubt. If I had got a dollar for every set of these headers that were sold because of this thread, I could have bought a set of the expensive ones for myself, LOL...

That's the cheapest they have been, as far as I can remember. In November 2009 I think mine were $320 shipped. I got ripped.

_zebra

iTrader: (5)

$275 to my door last december

Nuclear Endless

iTrader: (4)

Yeah they sold for cheaper a while back, but I think this is the best deal now

blacktruck0765

Had these on for a week now runs great, drive to work this morning and its missing at idle and backfiring.I put wire covers on the back two plugs on the drivers side,any ideas before I start spending money?

jrmchevyman

Its probably running on 7 cylinders. One of the back 2 spark plugs on the driver side probably got too hot and got brittle and came apart. Even with the Wire Heat Protectors over the spark plug wires, the headers can still burn through them if they are touching the headers. I had this problem and finally fixed it by routing the wires differently to where its not touching right on the header. You'll end up having to probably buy new spark plug wires and don't throw away the stockers in case you need them for backups.

blacktruck0765

Did you run the MSD wires if so what part number? thanks for the help.

_zebra

iTrader: (5)

here's just a note... i accidentally bought long wires when i needed the short ones for my engine swap. they fit around the hump - i just had to get some insulators to put between them.

badz24s

iTrader: (1)

me too. everybody: save your money on the good clamps. having 1 of the good clamps doesn't trump the normal ubolt style clamp.

I've got the header tick on my driver's side bank & it's aggravating, but comes with the territory.

I got mine in December 2010 & paid $283 shipped, think I got them from DNA Motoring on ebay.

I put mine on by myself & it took about 12 hrs, but I take my time. The biggest headache was an exhaust manifold to y-pipe nut that would not come off, had to cut it off with a dremel.

I had an issue with my magnaflow cat back rubbing on the driveshaft but that was corrected by loosening & retightening the y-pipe to cat back system.

The sound at WOT is worth it all...

jrmchevyman

I used 2 stainless steel band clamps from napa. In order to fit the band clamp around the said Y pipe brace side, you have to cut a notch/slit in the band clamp itself and it will fit on fine. You just cut a small slit in the one spot, slip it over the Y brace then wrap band-clamp around piping normally then snug the nuts/bolts to tighten. The slit should be just wide enough to fit in the "metal brace" and have a little room left so you can bend the band-clamp. Here is an example of the napa band clamp and I took the notch out to show what I mean. Very simple..



Now, that is not the exact spot to cut but you get the picture. Do be careful you can cut your hand/fingers easy when cutting the clamp.

1CLNY2K

iTrader: (4)

Just wanted to share another success story. Used the nice band clamps and copper RTV. Also purchased the GM EGR plug for the intake and ordered a stainless plug for the headers. Reused my factory bolts and manifold gaskets. They were a little close on the passenger frame rail, but gave it a little tweak and all is good. Have about 1/2" clearance to the front driveshaft as well. They slide up from the bottom with no trouble at all. The hardest part was getting the oil dipstick out. It was very comfortable where it was being it hasnt been moved in 213K miles. Here are some pictures I took.