Eaton Install
#1
Hey you guys, just wantedd to pass something by you here before I did it.
I am going to install an Eaton posi into my truck in about two weeks and wanted to make sure I had everything I needed, You guys know more about this than I so I wanted to pass it by you four to make sure I'm not missing anything. This is for an 01 Silverado, 2wd, 3.42 open rear with 30k on it.
Hardware
- THE Eaton!! part# 19559-010
- 80W-90W mineral based gear oil(GM 80-90 mineral gear lube part #12345977). gotta find amount, manual probably says.
- 2 - 4oz bottle of GM Limited Slip Additive, part #1052358 (I need 2 for the break in inspection at 500 miles)
- 2 - Differential Gaskets, not sure of the part number.
- Carrier bearings and races.
- will I need shims? There is obviously some manufacturing tolerance in all machining and I am thinking these would be good to have. If I can use the factory ones fine, but I wouldn't want to be stuck having too much slop and not have shims to true it up.
- Axle seals should be ok at 30k, won't need a new crush sleeve because I am not changing the pinion gear, right?
Process
I am going to have to have the ring gear pressed off the old open diff; that's per eaton instructions, but I guess on ours it is just held on via bolts? Can anyone confirm this. If it is pressed on should I have this pressed off or can I do this a hammer and punch by putting the punch through the ring gear bolt holes. I'm going to have to have the carrier bearings pressed on anyway so I would think pressing the ring gear off would be a better idea.
Then after the carrier bearings are pressed on the ring gear, the ring gear can be fully “pressed on” using a hydraulic press and then fully tightening the ring gear bolts to the proper torque specification afterward. The ring gear could be “drawn” on to the press fit of the housing ring gear pilot diameter by equally and alternately tightening the ring gear bolts, but I figure if the press is going to be used I would rather do it that way. Thoughts?
Tools
That being said, these are the tools I need.
- Haynes manual for torque specs
- General tools - sockets, hammer, etc.
- inch-pound torque wrench
- ft/pound torque wrench
- gasket scraper - how is this diff from a putty knife? It is Teflon or something so it doesn't scrape the surface.
- Magnetic base dial indicator (backlash setting)
- Haynes manual (mainly for torque specs)
- impact wrench
- jack and jack stands
- Oil pan
- Shop lamp
- Rags
- Case of Bud
I think that's it. I'd appreciate it if you guys would let me know if I am missing anything.
Thanks guys.
Andrew
I am going to install an Eaton posi into my truck in about two weeks and wanted to make sure I had everything I needed, You guys know more about this than I so I wanted to pass it by you four to make sure I'm not missing anything. This is for an 01 Silverado, 2wd, 3.42 open rear with 30k on it.
Hardware
- THE Eaton!! part# 19559-010
- 80W-90W mineral based gear oil(GM 80-90 mineral gear lube part #12345977). gotta find amount, manual probably says.
- 2 - 4oz bottle of GM Limited Slip Additive, part #1052358 (I need 2 for the break in inspection at 500 miles)
- 2 - Differential Gaskets, not sure of the part number.
- Carrier bearings and races.
- will I need shims? There is obviously some manufacturing tolerance in all machining and I am thinking these would be good to have. If I can use the factory ones fine, but I wouldn't want to be stuck having too much slop and not have shims to true it up.
- Axle seals should be ok at 30k, won't need a new crush sleeve because I am not changing the pinion gear, right?
Process
I am going to have to have the ring gear pressed off the old open diff; that's per eaton instructions, but I guess on ours it is just held on via bolts? Can anyone confirm this. If it is pressed on should I have this pressed off or can I do this a hammer and punch by putting the punch through the ring gear bolt holes. I'm going to have to have the carrier bearings pressed on anyway so I would think pressing the ring gear off would be a better idea.
Then after the carrier bearings are pressed on the ring gear, the ring gear can be fully “pressed on” using a hydraulic press and then fully tightening the ring gear bolts to the proper torque specification afterward. The ring gear could be “drawn” on to the press fit of the housing ring gear pilot diameter by equally and alternately tightening the ring gear bolts, but I figure if the press is going to be used I would rather do it that way. Thoughts?
Tools
That being said, these are the tools I need.
- Haynes manual for torque specs
- General tools - sockets, hammer, etc.
- inch-pound torque wrench
- ft/pound torque wrench
- gasket scraper - how is this diff from a putty knife? It is Teflon or something so it doesn't scrape the surface.
- Magnetic base dial indicator (backlash setting)
- Haynes manual (mainly for torque specs)
- impact wrench
- jack and jack stands
- Oil pan
- Shop lamp
- Rags
- Case of Bud
I think that's it. I'd appreciate it if you guys would let me know if I am missing anything.
Thanks guys.
Andrew
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