Droppin' a 2500 4x4 ??
#1
Is it possible to drop a 4x4 2500 and still keep the 4x4 functional.....I am looking at lowering it 2-3" in the front and about 4-5" in the back
The Torsion bar front end WILL let me lower it that far in the front (I have already tried it...the adjusters back out really far and the drive arms sit perfetly level at that height, as for the back end...I was thinking about pulling the second main spring and the bottom overload spring...will that get me down 4-5" like I want or do I have to remove more leaves or go to an aftermarket 1/2 ton spring pack ??
To keep the towing capacity (10,200 lbs) and carrying capacity I am going to install a set of Firestone overload air bags on th rear axle.
I want to keep the 4x4 fully functional for winter driving (when I decide to leave Death Valley
) and for the "occasional" full-throttle launch
Once I drop it I am probably going to go with a set of 18-20" rims (don't know what kind yet..suggestions are welcome) and probably Goodyear tires (again....I don't know what kind yet...any suggestions ??)
here's a picture to give you an idea of what it looks like now....
The Torsion bar front end WILL let me lower it that far in the front (I have already tried it...the adjusters back out really far and the drive arms sit perfetly level at that height, as for the back end...I was thinking about pulling the second main spring and the bottom overload spring...will that get me down 4-5" like I want or do I have to remove more leaves or go to an aftermarket 1/2 ton spring pack ??
To keep the towing capacity (10,200 lbs) and carrying capacity I am going to install a set of Firestone overload air bags on th rear axle.
I want to keep the 4x4 fully functional for winter driving (when I decide to leave Death Valley
) and for the "occasional" full-throttle launch
Once I drop it I am probably going to go with a set of 18-20" rims (don't know what kind yet..suggestions are welcome) and probably Goodyear tires (again....I don't know what kind yet...any suggestions ??)
here's a picture to give you an idea of what it looks like now....
#2
wow, i love that 291rwhp STOCK!! and that is a 99 with iron heads?
as far as lowering it, sounds like you have it prety much figured out, you might want to check your snubbers, i droped my 1/2 ton some and it was sitting on the snubbers so i cut about 2/3 off of them. on the 1/2 ton in the rear there is a lift block that can be removed, shackels would probably give you a little too or go the spring route. if you could get a set of 1/2 ton springs to work on there i bet you would like the caddy like ride.
as far as lowering it, sounds like you have it prety much figured out, you might want to check your snubbers, i droped my 1/2 ton some and it was sitting on the snubbers so i cut about 2/3 off of them. on the 1/2 ton in the rear there is a lift block that can be removed, shackels would probably give you a little too or go the spring route. if you could get a set of 1/2 ton springs to work on there i bet you would like the caddy like ride.
#3
yeah...that 291 RWHP blew my away too!!! when I had the dyno run done to get my smog certification I just couldn't believe it, so I payed another $65 to have 3 more runs done, all came out between 289 and 291 RWHP
and yeah...that is an Iron Head '99...I haven't seen many dyno numbers for the '99's but it seems a little on the high side to me but not too far out of the ball park....either way I'm not going to argue with it.....
the best I have run bone-stock is a G-tech Pro Comp timed 15.62@89...not to shabby for a 5600lb pickup truck on street tires, I used an online 1/4 mile calculator to try and figure RWHP necessary to run that...and it comes out to 291 RWHP !!, the best run to date is a 15.32@91...thats with all the "free mods" and a Hooker Aerochamber cat-back exhaust
as for the drop....I need to keep the towing capacity because I tow a #9000 fifth-wheel trailer....if the 1/2 ton springs and 'bags will let me do that I will go that way...otherwise I need to keep the 3/4 ton stuff, remove some leaves and add the 'bags to those
and yeah...that is an Iron Head '99...I haven't seen many dyno numbers for the '99's but it seems a little on the high side to me but not too far out of the ball park....either way I'm not going to argue with it.....
the best I have run bone-stock is a G-tech Pro Comp timed 15.62@89...not to shabby for a 5600lb pickup truck on street tires, I used an online 1/4 mile calculator to try and figure RWHP necessary to run that...and it comes out to 291 RWHP !!, the best run to date is a 15.32@91...thats with all the "free mods" and a Hooker Aerochamber cat-back exhaust
as for the drop....I need to keep the towing capacity because I tow a #9000 fifth-wheel trailer....if the 1/2 ton springs and 'bags will let me do that I will go that way...otherwise I need to keep the 3/4 ton stuff, remove some leaves and add the 'bags to those
#5
There are no blocks under the springs...the leaf pack sits right on the axle spring perch.....
does anyone know if 1/2 ton drop hangers and shackles will work on the 3/4 tons or does anyone make 3/4 ton drop hangers and shackles??...and will they hold up under load the same way as the stock hanger shackle ??
does anyone know if 1/2 ton drop hangers and shackles will work on the 3/4 tons or does anyone make 3/4 ton drop hangers and shackles??...and will they hold up under load the same way as the stock hanger shackle ??
#6
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 765
Likes: 0
From: CA
Measure the width of your springs, if they are the same as a half ton, they should work, but i kind of doubt they are the same. Im sure someone makes some shackles for a 3/4 ton. Try maybe belltech. or you could just have some custom spring packs made so that you keep your load capacity, yet achieve some drop
#7
I know that the 2500 rear springs and the 1500 springs will interchange. When I lifted my 2500, I gave my springs to my friend with a 1500 and it raised the truck about 2 inches in the rear.
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