Hi All! I've got a '10 Yukon with the 6.2. Has about 97000 on it and is 8 months out of warranty. Started ticking bad, took it to the dealer and they wanted 4900 to fix. A bit ridiculous. My other car is a G8 w/the 6.0 and I've been looking into doing a cam swap on it, so I'm familiar with the process.

How different is the 6.2 from the 6.0 as far as the lifter and cam swap?

Anybody know of a good shop in south Kansas City, Olathe, OP?

Any good write ups? I'm looking but not finding anything yet.

I just want to delete the AFM, not really looking for any huge gains, it's the family hauler. I do tow a boat, so a setup for towing might be fun.

Thanks!

Steve

 

Going to be basically the same

 

If you want to use all stock parts put a cam and lifters in it for a L9H 6.2 and it's just like doing DOD delete on any other DOD GM engine.

Hows the oil pressure.

 

My wife's had the collapsed lifter tick as well in her dod 2009 Tahoe. $2400 fix. I would have tried to fix it myself if it was my own truck, but I wanted to get it fixed fast for her sake (which isn't always the pace I get to truck repairs).

Ws6 tamu, he doesn't need a new valley cover, timing cover, cam sensor and all that good stuff too?

 

Oil pressure is good. It just started ticking, hasn't been driven, we towed it to the dealer. If I could find a shop with a good Rec for 2400 I'd go that route just to save the time. But 4900, what a ripoff.

I'm actually looking forward to it, just need to find the time. Appreciate any words of wisdom I can get.

 

Depending on how bad the tick is, you could add some trans fluid to the oil to see if that help clear things up. Sticky lifters or noisy lifters can sometimes go away when the trans fluid cleans them out real good.

 

Just to clarify, you should tell people how much ATF/motor oil to mix in ...........Just in case,you never know

 

In my experience fix it quick as it goes South pretty quickly. The 6.0 in my old work truck 2009 3500HD would tick intermittently, though it was fairly consistent about how it would happen. Quiet when started cold, once warmed up, if you let it idle for a minute or more it would start ticking loudly. Oil pressure fine. Revving it a little made no difference, it would only go away a few minutes into driving again. Eventually it got really bad and would start backfiring inside the intake/running poorly.

The geniuses at our shop replaced the lifters with used ones from another engine that was pulled for other issues. Why they decided to do this beats me, unless they were trying to guarantee some return business in the near future. When the lifters crapped out again the boss just decided to swap in a low mile used engine.

Started around 170K miles
Much worse only about 1K later
Richard

 

I always replaced 1 quart of oil for trans fluid. Side note: you can do this every few oil changes just to keep the inside of the motor clean.


Someotherguy - That was a pretty bad tick, don't think much would have fixed that one except new lifters if it didnt take out the cam.

 

By the time they decided to work on it again, it was chirping, so we figured the cam was likely toast. That's what prompted the engine swap-out instead of going back inside it again. We sold the truck around 240K and it's still on the road.

Richard