if the 60amp are sold out it is for a reason. i would go with a 60amp version like i did but that is my opinion.

 

Id pay the 50 for the peace of mind

(btw - im a cheap bastard )

 

He's quite confident the 35 will be fine, so that's what I'll be trying. (I'm a seriously cheap bastard too! )

Here's what will let me sleep at night:

- 35A continuous... 50A for 30 seconds... F-a-L rates their 282/292's for 28A.
- Brian thinks it's entirely possible the melted F-a-L fuse holders are a vendor issue.
- the whole "Reliability" section here: http://www.dccontrol.com/techwrk.htm,
and the following statement:

"Over temperature monitoring provides multi-step protection. Under moderately severe conditions, output current is progressively reduced, causing only a subtle rise in engine temperature. Where more severe conditions are introduced, the control unit will begin to cycle in a fashion similar to a standard controller. This provides not only protection for the controller but also acts as a problem indicator to the driver as cooling noise will substantially increase. Finally, if conditions prove to be too severe for safe operation, the controller will shut itself off."

- IF I do have any issues, there will be no problem swapping it for the larger controller.

(AND IT'LL BE HERE FOR THIS WEEKEND!)

I'd ideally like to set up a test where I'd run the fans at 100% (set the turn on temp real low?), for 5-10 minutes, to see if the controller has any issues.

 

In not sure if its like my f-a-lite VSC but you can probly hook up a override switch to turn them on when you want. Thats what I did