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Crossed Drilled Rotors.....Vol II

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Old May 25, 2004 | 12:46 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by F150boy84
have a challenge for you guys. Throw information out saying that cd-ed and slotted rotors DO make a difference. I don't want your opinions like you have been giving me the whole time. I can "feel" it..Show me some solid information that shows cd-ed rotors actually help on a daily driver.
Oh.. ok... so now im supposed to get info that you dont even have and you WORK for a brake company..

Originally Posted by F150boy84
I know i haven't thrown numbers out myself, but i have gievn you results of test i personally have ran and those of my co-workers. i am trying to give you what i have found without being completely biased.
Uhh.. I did that too. I have given you results of tests I personally done but somehow im supposed to belive you and you dont listen to **** I say ... yea OK
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Old May 25, 2004 | 12:49 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by treyZ28
Go look at any of the hardcore autocross guys.
Look above

Originally Posted by treyZ28
Think there is a reason why baer and wilwood say on their website they DON’T cool and actually heat up rotors?
How bout some links?
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Old May 25, 2004 | 12:58 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by -= MacADaYear =-
Oh.. ok... so now im supposed to get info that you dont even have and you WORK for a brake company..



Uhh.. I did that too. I have given you results of tests I personally done but somehow im supposed to belive you and you dont listen to **** I say ... yea OK
You can stop being a toolbox, seriously. i am not ripping on you. if you wanna measure whos dick is bigger go for it. because thats all you seem to wanna do. I think if the tests i have ran are good enough for the big 3 standards they would be good enough for some nobody...but i guess not. I'm not listening to what your saying becasue you area broken record, you just keep saying you "feel" them braking harder, if i put new pads and rotors on after 50 k miles, i'd feel better braking too because they aren't wore out. I had thermocouples hooked to the rotors that were hooked to a computer that reads the temps and pressures and gives them to me. Now for you to say you "feel" better braking doesnt mean **** to me. I have proven my point, now PROVE yours. unless you are just talking out your ***....
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Old May 25, 2004 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by -= MacADaYear =-
Oh.. ok... so now im supposed to get info that you dont even have and you WORK for a brake company..



Uhh.. I did that too. I have you results of tests I personally done but somehow im supposed to belive you and you dont listen to **** I say ... yea OK
Can you tell me how you conducted these tests, your accuracy, observations, results and any other comments? How did you measure the temp? what did you use to check for warping and coning. How many heat cycles did you go through?

Whenever I did testing; these were all some pretty strait forward answers.


You're "spray paint a line in the road and stop" theory doesn't hold any water either. Even if you could get your braking timing within 0.5 sec of each other (highly doubtful if you can even do this with a stopwatch) then you are only in a range of +-25! Id say your closer to a second which makes your brakes in stock form somewhere inbetween a Z06 and 4 wheel drums on a steep hill.
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Old May 25, 2004 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by F150boy84
Like i have said previously the only true way to get much better braking performance is to go the overly expensive route and get better(bigger) calipers, bigger rotors, and bigger, better pads, and steel braided brake lines. The more braking surface area you have the faster the truck will stop. that is a univeral truth.
There is another guy on here (forgot his username) that replied to one of the earlier brake threads before we were all so fortunate to have you and Trey bless us with your infinite knowledge. From what I remember, he said that steel braided lines will NOT decrease your stopping distance, only make the pedal feel better. He said that he raced go karts and/or dirtbikes and knew brakes extensively. But you say they will help. ???
Well, I have the steel lines and the brake pedal feel is the same as before. What gives? Did I bleed the system incorrectly? I used that power bleeder and followed the instructions to a tee. Does it stop quicker? It "feels" like it does. Look, I'm not saying I do or don't believe you guys. Honestly, these rotors feel more or less the same as stock, but they do stop well. I guess I'll have to see for myself if the pads go faster. I guess once these go to crap I will shell out a grand and get the Baer 14" drilled rotors and their calipers.
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Old May 25, 2004 | 01:05 PM
  #96  
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POST SOME NUMBERS then if you guys are so good with this. Tell us the tests you did and the numbers that came back
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Old May 25, 2004 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by -= MacADaYear =-
Look above



How bout some links?


http://www.wilwood.com/faq.asp#question7

Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.

Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.
http://www.baer.com/Support/FAQ.aspx#1


In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “green pad fade” or “outgassing”. When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting!

However, with today’s race pad technology, ‘outgassing’ is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra-high performance road pads, look for the phrases, “dynamic surface treatment”, “race ready”, and/or, “pre-burnished”. When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with ‘outgassing’. [/b]Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit ‘outgassing’, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack.[/b]

Although crossdrilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs.

Crossdrilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential “stress risers” from which cracks can occur. Baer’s rotors are cast with crossdrilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.

Like we said; get the right pads and forget the holes. you got some bling though :thumbs:

but what would baer and wilwood know? They have incredibly expensive and accurate tests; but they certainly dont have your ***.
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Old May 25, 2004 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by treyZ28
Can you tell me how you conducted these tests, your accuracy, observations, results and any other comments? How did you measure the temp? what did you use to check for warping and coning. How many heat cycles did you go through?
You worked at a brake company you tell me.
Originally Posted by treyZ28
Whenever I did testing; these were all some pretty strait forward answers.
If you answered your questions at work the way you do here, no wonder you got fired.. all talk
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Old May 25, 2004 | 01:09 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by -= MacADaYear =-
POST SOME NUMBERS then if you guys are so good with this. Tell us the tests you did and the numbers that came back
ever heard ofconfidentiality? A nice thick book you sign when you join a company? Says you cant tell anyone about this stuff durring and after your employment? You how fired his *** would be for releasing data that his company spend tens, if not hundreds of thousands of dollars testing? Are you that dumb?
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Old May 25, 2004 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by F150boy84
You can stop being a toolbox, seriously....I think if the tests i have ran are good enough for the big 3 standards they would be good enough for some nobody...but i guess not.
You really think the Big 3 cares about anything other than the bottom line? You are the real tool.
Those Firestone tires that came with the Ford Explorers awhile back must've met their standards too. Now more than, what was is, 200 people are dead?
Maybe Ford thought, hey if we put shitty brake systems on our vehicles, customers will have to come back more often and spend money to get **** fixed. Naaa....that's a ridiculous idea
In case you didn't know, it's all about money. Think whatever you want though.
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