no, the table is in %

 

what about the openloop f/a vs coolant temp vs MAP table?

 

flyer this is a cold start problem only (open loop) why would I go into the main VE?
also, where is the main VE table?

 

It's under airflow. You can also go to the idle table and pull some air away from cold idle. EIther way, it would acheive the same thing.

I was doing it that way assuming you had the notable stumble off idle with the RADIX.

 

I'm going to change the plugs and see what happens first.

on NGK's website they show the TR55 gapped @ .060 as the direct replacement.

 

Gap them at .035, that should be a heat range cooler.

 

Look at your O2s (once they light up) during cold start.
This will tell you which side you're on for mixture.

I've seen cars that have a high idle MAP, have idle
problems due to indexing up too high in the open loop
fuel air table, where at low ECT and high MAP you have
some -insane- enrichment (like 1.4 fuel.air multiplier). In
fact you should be logging the fuel air multiplier as a rule
so you know what the PCM's thinking for fuel. Check this
and see if the the idle cleans up, right about the time
the FAM snaps into 1.000 closed loop. VE table also can
be a source of rich error if you have a cam with much
overlap (low RPM bleed-down / reversion drops true VE,
your actual air is less than indicated and you shoot fuel
based on indicated). Anyway check the idle MAP and ECT
and see what your commanded enrichment is, and you
may want to shave on that (OLFA) table for MAP at and
below where you're currently idling.

 

I heard of this problem on a number of Radix'ed trucks...

Yeah, there are two big things that play a part in cold idle / cold drive -- the VE table and the F/A multiplier.

You can do the whole VE-tune-thing (Speed Density aka MAFless), which will dial in the VE table for you...

and/or,

You can play with the F/A multipliers.

I did both for mine... The VE table made the biggest difference. That's probably the proper way to go about things because there probably isn't a good chance that Superchips/Magna was able to get the VE tables spot on for all vehicles that the Radix kits tuner works for. The VE table is basically active the most of time the truck is in operation, while the F/A-M is just for open loop/cold start stuff. I guess the only downside is, the VE tune is a little involved.

The F/A-M can be a quick an pretty easy way to try things out. As you might know, 1.0 = 14.7:1 mixture. 1.1, would be rich, .90 would be on the lean side. If you scan your idle, or where you're having problems while in open loop, and compare to which F/A-M cell you're at, you can bump the fueling around with those numbers.

I'm not very good at reading 02's like JB mentioned... Actually, I don't know ANYTHING about doing that, besides WOT voltage stuff. I'm a bit of a trial-and-error hack...

 

I don't think I explained this correctly. There is no cold idle problem or cold driving problem, it is only a start problem. It doesn't fire right up, it pauses, stumbles, and sometimes sounds like its hung up before firing.......once running everything is good to go.

 

would you still recommend the above change parameters based on my above statement?