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Old 09-26-2009, 09:27 AM
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Dude,

replace the canister vent valve. It wil have an outlet to the drivers side of the truck, this is where you hook your 5/8 heater hose. Run hose all the way up the frame rail, and go over the transmission. Then hook the new filter to it and zip tie it to the fuel lines up there. Then go back nd zip tie the hose to Hose or harnesses anything to keep it off of anything to damage it. clear your code and your done
Old 09-26-2009, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Grumpy5.3
Dude,

replace the canister vent valve. It wil have an outlet to the drivers side of the truck, this is where you hook your 5/8 heater hose. Run hose all the way up the frame rail, and go over the transmission. Then hook the new filter to it and zip tie it to the fuel lines up there. Then go back nd zip tie the hose to Hose or harnesses anything to keep it off of anything to damage it. clear your code and your done
I not understand why someone say about gas neck filler hose first place? Supposed to removed or stay small hose go where? Will you look at page 4 the picture I draw. See if you can add draw and explain tell me where. It would be helpful. Wherre the new filter box suppose mount at? so hose connect from filter and the hose go up to transmission? HOW can mount the hose somewhere over transmission? Sounds like you try to say the filter box need to be top where is transmission at?


Also can you check 3 of link I gave. To see if yall think that right parts. But I not sure if it is correct because of gm and AcDelco number are different. Thought it not come with kit?
Old 09-27-2009, 06:31 PM
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The hose that goes up by the filler neck will be discarded and replaced by the new 5/8" heater hose. If you crawl under the bed and look where the filler tube goes from where you fill it, you should see the small hose attached up there. remove that hose and follow it down and you'll find the solenoid that you have to replace. I think that the new solenoid kit comes with a new plastic vent cap that will be installed into the new heater hose. Not sure how long the new hose needs to be, but it's cheap enough that you could get about 4 feet of it and cut it to fit. I'd install the new vent cap into the new hose, run the hose up the transmission tunnel and secure it to the trans vent hose with zip ties (don't make the zip ties too tight or you'll crimp the trans vent shut), then run it down to the new solenoid and trim it to fit.

Hope this helps
Old 09-27-2009, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by budhayes3
The hose that goes up by the filler neck will be discarded and replaced by the new 5/8" heater hose. If you crawl under the bed and look where the filler tube goes from where you fill it, you should see the small hose attached up there. remove that hose and follow it down and you'll find the solenoid that you have to replace. I think that the new solenoid kit comes with a new plastic vent cap that will be installed into the new heater hose. Not sure how long the new hose needs to be, but it's cheap enough that you could get about 4 feet of it and cut it to fit. I'd install the new vent cap into the new hose, run the hose up the transmission tunnel and secure it to the trans vent hose with zip ties (don't make the zip ties too tight or you'll crimp the trans vent shut), then run it down to the new solenoid and trim it to fit.

Hope this helps

Got it now. I found picture from other site. I gonna fix it. Hope things is going smooth! Will update with yall soon.

Last edited by Go5.3tt06; 09-27-2009 at 08:36 PM.
Old 10-07-2009, 04:53 PM
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Hey guys. I want to let everybody to know what's going on with my truck. It is big suck and getting tired of engine light come back. Let me explain clear. Last Wednesday I installed new purge valve, new design with evap vent valve and small the filter box. I bought some 5/8 heater hose 15 feets for in case to extra some hoses for myself. I did disconnect the battery while I'm doing the work. Everyting is perfect when I installed myself. I did run 5/8 hose with fours clamp on evap vent valve and I put hose all way to top of transmission tunnel to clamp with small filter box. I zipped all hose holder by fuel line. Didn't zip that tight. I put a easy. Then connect battery. I scanned it to clear the code out. So far for about 6 days later. Now it come back engine light on. I scanned it. It say P0443 evaporative emission system leak detected small leak. Also remember I got fuel cap replace. My friend gave me for free. Since it was on 2009 silverado truck he only use the cap less 1,000 mileage on his. After he got lock key with cap. That's why I got free. Its show yellow cap with e85 label on the cap. See if guys know about this. Tell me why it always come back on so much. I need fix it real soon. Before I take it to emission to pass due for my birthday thought.
Old 10-07-2009, 05:19 PM
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Well now you have a new code for a leak, I'd go back and check the connections between the new valve and the cannister...not sure about the gas cap, I'd think that it should be the same. Make sure that the gasket on the cap is good and not deformed. I know that for Toyota/Lexus you can get the gasket separately for like 5 or so bucks.
Old 10-07-2009, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by budhayes3
Well now you have a new code for a leak, I'd go back and check the connections between the new valve and the cannister...not sure about the gas cap, I'd think that it should be the same. Make sure that the gasket on the cap is good and not deformed. I know that for Toyota/Lexus you can get the gasket separately for like 5 or so bucks.
Hey, I did get new gasket it is direct perfect. I did check everything all connect are good. And I check the fuse are good no blow. Make me wonder
Old 10-07-2009, 10:24 PM
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Check for any loose hoses, and inspect the canister for cracks....that code is for a small leak, not a gross leak, so it's actually harder to find. I remember that you also replaced the purge valve, make sure that the hoses to it are on tight and check the integrity of the hoses.
Old 10-08-2009, 06:31 AM
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I did acuatlly check all hoses loose. I retight the clamps. And there is nothing to be spot of crack anything like that. Is anybody can help me out fast? Somebody who is on our thread. They had done with same thing. They do fine with their truck. But expect mine none. It made me wonder why. Tired of chevy act up sissy for simple things to show engine light. I want see who had experince with this problem issuses. If anyone won't help. Ill guess take it to dealership at once. Tired of cost and more cost.
Old 10-08-2009, 11:15 AM
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Unfortunately, if you can't see anything physically, and everything is tight, it probably requires test equipment such as a mild air pump, scan tool, and possibly a smoke machine (don't try pumping compressed air into your gas tank or you will blow out the pressure sensor on top of the gas tank and be dropping the tank to replace one of those).

Try going to AutoZone to get the code cleared first, just in case the battery disconnect didn't work.

I'm actually going out this evening, for the first time since my daughter's been born, but I'll either text you or try to give you a call if I can. If not I'll try to get in touch with you Friday evening or over the weekend unless you get it fixed by then


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