cam with no stall
#12
if you want the truck to run quicker et's and be more fun get a stall. there is a point where a cam will be too large and it i will actualy run slower without a higher stall and i guess thats kind of what this thread is about. not sure what point that would be.
ignoring the point of this thread and just talking about converters. if your funds are limited and you want to improve the performance of your truck it would be very dificult to beat the bang for the buck you get from a decent converter. if i could only do one mod to my truck it would be a converter.
ignoring the point of this thread and just talking about converters. if your funds are limited and you want to improve the performance of your truck it would be very dificult to beat the bang for the buck you get from a decent converter. if i could only do one mod to my truck it would be a converter.
#13
do any of yall recommend a good cam and stall for a daily driver. Im looking for a little more power that wont drain my pocket a the pump. Is that possible. I dont know a lot about cam setups but I do know that I want it to sound badass.
#14
Contrary to popular belief a cam that sounds "good" is not always good. The reason you need a converter is because to get the cam sound you have to run a cam made to make power way up top. GM designed these engines to run smoother, so it takes a larger cam to get the same sound. When you do that you loose bottom end, which is fine if its a race car, or really light. Neither of which describes a truck. Look at the specs of the stock cam and compare that to the "small" cams. It's still a step up and will be a good gain. That's what I would do, but in the end its all about what you want. If you want the biggest cam, the most lope, or the quickest e.t., get a cam and converter. If you want more power but don't really care about sound or e.t. get a small cam.
#15
Contrary to popular belief a cam that sounds "good" is not always good. The reason you need a converter is because to get the cam sound you have to run a cam made to make power way up top. GM designed these engines to run smoother, so it takes a larger cam to get the same sound. When you do that you loose bottom end, which is fine if its a race car, or really light. Neither of which describes a truck. Look at the specs of the stock cam and compare that to the "small" cams. It's still a step up and will be a good gain. That's what I would do, but in the end its all about what you want. If you want the biggest cam, the most lope, or the quickest e.t., get a cam and converter. If you want more power but don't really care about sound or e.t. get a small cam.
Overlap is what determines lope. Thanks.
In all seriousness, do everything all at once (cam, valve train, stall, headers, exhaust) and have it dyno tuned. If you can't afford everything all at once, go with a stall only. You'll notice a HUGE difference over stock even with a 2600 stall. I would go with a 3000 stall in a RCSB, tho. If you have a GM SUV (Yukon/Tahoe/Escalade), I wouldn't run 3000 stall as a DD. I would supercharge it and put in a 2200-2600 stall instead.
#17
For towing look into the Yank Truck Thruster series converters. They will allow you to keep your present towing capacity without problems. Yes a converter will heat the trans fluid up but just throw a big tranny cooler in there and you're set. A cooler isn't a bad idea for extra insurance anyway.
#18
For towing look into the Yank Truck Thruster series converters. They will allow you to keep your present towing capacity without problems. Yes a converter will heat the trans fluid up but just throw a big tranny cooler in there and you're set. A cooler isn't a bad idea for extra insurance anyway.
I can do that... Thanks!! I think the 3500 HD's come with a tranny cooler. I know mine has one..
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