had my spintech muffler installed yesterday with some tubing that exits below and between the diff and pass. lower shock mount. havent noticed a SOTP difference and its too early to tell any gas mileage improvement since i did it midway through the tank, but the truck sounds badass now. its silent when im not on the throttle and sounds absolutley evil at WOT. havent really decided if the minimal amount of noise i can hear when crusing is annoying or not. i usually have the music loud enough to where i cant hear it anyway haha

 

finishing up collecting the last of the parts i need for the cam swap. are there any other parts i need besides coolant, water pump gaskets, rtv high temp copper sealant? i need to go to a dealer for the new balancer bolt. what bolt did you guys use that was an inch longer that wont break in the crank snout?

 

Grab a pushrod length checker and get a good read on what length pushrods that thing needs and order them. You'll thank yourself later when you don't wind up with too much/too little lifter pre-load. How do you plan on changing the valve springs? Air compressor method with heads on block? Or are you removing the heads? If you're doing it all with the heads on the block, I'd recommend grabbing a set of lifter "tools" or wooden dowels to lock the lifters up and away from the camshaft so that they don't fall down in the block. If you're taking your heads off, check the intake gaskets and fuel injector o-rings for being worn/ torn/ pinched before re-installing the intake manifold, that'll save you on chasing vacuum leaks later.

 

the cam is a comp 212/218 low lift i already have hardened 7.4's to replace the stock pushrods...all the hard parts i need are bought, just need the small stuff
im going the pressurized chamber route holding up the valves.

 

I'm puttin the cam in today. If I can't get a plug to pressurize the cylinder to change out springs can I run the stock springs for a while?

 

Just an update on the stepside. Truck is currently on non-op status since February, I put roughly 4-5k miles ( truck only has 89,1xx total) on the cam and converter since they were installed in September. I love the feeling of it pulling like a freight train which it does from 2500 rpm up! But alas, I cannot leave well enough alone.

Next on the list which I will start collecting parts for on my next deployment. Include:
Magnuson tvs1900
8.1 injectors
Walbro 255
Probally a 4L80e conversion, can't imagine the stock 60 will last long once the blower is on
Thorley tri y's
Perhaps an lq4 with 243 heads later

Thoughts? Tim Z I'll probally have some questions for you later down the line, your truck is a huge inspiration for me when this gets closer to reality then bench racing

 

Has anybody ever considered turboing a truck in Cali by mounting it after the y pipe in order to retain cats for street legality? Or is there not enough space after the y under the truck?

 

The cats would be destroyed in short order from the heat, not to mention they would destrpy the turbo were they to fail

 

Damn...that explains why nobody has done it haha...
Forgive my ignorance, but why would the cats be destroyed? Do the turbo hot sides get a lot hotter then say a naturally aspirated or supercharged engine's exhaust? How does the sts rear mount system work? I thought it could be attached to the flange that mounts the midpipe back? I still have a lot to learn about turbo systems... Thank you for your time and intellect Atomic

 

Im not sure what the sts sytem does with the cats. Preturbo temps get mich hotter than anything else due to the turbine pressure, usually around 1500-1700 degrees with post turbine being 1100-1200 max.