I am in the process of building a dual in-tank pump setup and the pumps I bought off e-bay came in today so I was able to make a little headway. I used the pics Parish has on his website as a guideline as what to do-where to cut the factory module, etc. I have a 4 psi Hobbs switch ordered for activating pump #2 under boost. The hardest part so far has been making the "T" fitting to hook the pump outlets together. Lets just say I am not the best at soldering pipes together (made it out of copper fittings) Hopefully I can finish it up tomorrow and if I can, get it in over the weekend.

Anybody know how hard it is to get the bed off these trucks? I have never done a pump in a NBS so I dont have a clue how hard its gonna be.

 

Looks like it's coming along.

The bed is only held on by 4-6? bolts. Just take them off and probably unclip the lights wiring harness. Can't be too hard but, I've never taken one off so I don't know.

 

Don't take the bed off
Just drop the 2 staps on the tank and the tank will drop down
just make sure it nice and empty
pretty easy to get the pump out
my pump used Brass fittings to do the tee
make sure you use wire that is going to be safe emersed in fuel
that's the biggest thing i'd worry about
The other thing is do a test fit in the pumps and make sure they touch the bottom of tank with some pressure

 

good luck with this man it is done on stangs alot (stock on cobras) but i have to ask wouldnt it be cheaper to do one big pump???

 

Lifting the bed and dropping the tank are both easy. What fuel pumps are you going with? I have a inline 255 and a intank 255 but, I am having problems with my fuel system. I have just installed a NX 80000EFI Direct Port on my truck. When activating the juice I have a split second lag of no fuel. It is sucking the rail dry. I am thinking of installing a single 340 and a hotwire, I have heard that will be good for 680rwhp.

 

I done the same thing not so long ago. I haven't wired in a hobbs switch yet, but have plans to later.

Instead of a tee, I would get a "y" connector. Much better flow characterictics and takes away the semi-sharp bends you'll have to do in the tubing. Something else I will do when the hobbs gets wired in. The connector is a little on the expensive side.

 

Stupid-I read your post over in the fueling section- I am with the guy who suggested that you remove that inline pump-just looks to me like that is a restriction.

I went with 2 high pressure 255's, so soon we will see if I am a fuel system engineer or not, LOL.

Ben-I looked locally for a Y, but couldn't find anything I liked so I just made the T out of copper fittings (the have nice smooth bends, no kinks) The way I see it, yeah a T is more restrictive than a Y but the bottom line is-there is only so much that can be pumped through a single stock line so I think that will be my restriction, not my T.

 

UPDATE-I decided to pull the bed-it had almost a full tank and I was ready to do it. 8 bolts, 2 plugs and about 10 minutes and the bed was off ! Easiest fuel pump access I have ever had. I should finish it tomorrow and if it works I am going to the track tomorrow night.

 

How did you pull the bed? Did you and some buddies just lift it off and set it on a couple of saw horses? Or did you use an engine hoist somehow?
Thanks, I'm just needing to this soon too
Ryan

 

keep a running total on cost, it will be interesting to see how much you save over the racetronics set up. i paid $550.