Anything negative about going to a 4.100" stroke crank?
#13
There is some increased side loading of the crank and pistons with longer stroke assemblies but you should not be in too much danger.
The GenIII iron blocks take the 4" stroke cranks with no mods needed. The aluminum blocks require a notch at the bottom of the cylinder bore to avoid the rod hitting tho. I measured my 4" Eagle crank clearance at 0.090" ( minimum is 0.050" ), so the longer crank might cause issues. You also need to watch out for the clearance of the crank reluctor wheel and the #8 piston skirt. Going longer should make this a non issue but dang sure check it first.
One other idea is a longer rod only. Most of the kits use a 6.125" rod length but Eagle ( and maybe others ) makes a 6.200" model. This would effectively decrease the piston crown to deck height and raise compression although valve relief pistons and careful choices of gross valve lift are "suggested".
The GenIII iron blocks take the 4" stroke cranks with no mods needed. The aluminum blocks require a notch at the bottom of the cylinder bore to avoid the rod hitting tho. I measured my 4" Eagle crank clearance at 0.090" ( minimum is 0.050" ), so the longer crank might cause issues. You also need to watch out for the clearance of the crank reluctor wheel and the #8 piston skirt. Going longer should make this a non issue but dang sure check it first.
One other idea is a longer rod only. Most of the kits use a 6.125" rod length but Eagle ( and maybe others ) makes a 6.200" model. This would effectively decrease the piston crown to deck height and raise compression although valve relief pistons and careful choices of gross valve lift are "suggested".
#14
Thread Starter
Tin Foil Hat Wearin' Fool
iTrader: (36)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,204
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
Got the P to V issues covered jus trying to figure out what the hell to do to get my high 10 CR and use 66 cc combustion chambers with the stock thickness gasket with off the shelf **** cause there isnt time for custom stuff. Wish this **** would have been noticed two weeks ago when the **** was ordered. The parts were recieved at the speed shop and he noticed the pistons were a -29cc
instead of -2cc
so now Im back to the drawing board and calculator
so now Im back to the drawing board and calculator
#15
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Wish this **** would have been noticed two weeks ago when the **** was ordered. The parts were recieved at the speed shop and he noticed the pistons were a -29cc
instead of -2cc
so now Im back to the drawing board and calculator 
so now Im back to the drawing board and calculator 
It took three tries to get all the correct parts sitting together at my house. Price was damn good but to do it the supplier outsourced most/all the individual items. Since I was the DIY builder it only cost me my own time ( whatever that may be worth ). My supplier even offered to pay for any extra expenses if any were to come up.Just keep telling yourself, "There's no replacement for displacement" and "It WILL be mine one day".
#16
Thread Starter
Tin Foil Hat Wearin' Fool
iTrader: (36)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,204
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
Ill find out what the deal is monday for sure. What pisses me off is Im trying to get all this **** back together in time to go back to Texas on the 18th so I dont have very much ime to get this **** done.
#19
Just a word of caution from an old fart that's made a lot of mistakes in life..... be careful you don't get impatient and get "rammy". Go slow!! .... measure at least twice and then, just before you cut, measure and think about it one more time. Then cut slowly.
#20
Thread Starter
Tin Foil Hat Wearin' Fool
iTrader: (36)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,204
Likes: 4
From: Austin, TX
Thanks Jim I appreciate the advice. When it comes to building the motor I will take my time but everythign else will be ***** to the wall trying to get it done in time for me to go back to texas for thanksgiving and the GTG at HRP in Houston on the 20th.


