so you guys think if i send my carburateur off to be rebuilt it..will.. fix it???

 

also..?...when i took my air filter..off...the floats which i do believe are the two..gold looken things on each side that i can shove down and up...from looking down on the carburatuer...

they seemed to be...Dark Colored...almost like a Dark Brown.....Do they normally look like this...when a Carburateur is used>???..

 

ne ideas

 

You can't see the float(s) with just the air filter removed. You mean the air horn(top one-third section removed)? I wouldn't just send it off to be rebuilt because you don't know how they would set the float, etc. Try to get a good carb guy to troubleshoot and adjust it for you in your area.

 

To start, give us an idea on what carburetor you have and what engine you have it on. Share as much engine specs as possible as this sounds like a basic tuning issue that can be easily overcome with the right step-up spring and metering rod combination.

 

Was exactly what I was thinking. However, this just may be a tuning issue. I'd start by re-tuning your A/F mix, then lean it slightly to see if this problem still exists afterwards. Someone posted earlier about "loading up". Adjustment for fuel flow may just be too high (over air). Lack of atomization (sp?) may just be your issue.

I'm no pro, but a lot of my carb problems had everything to due with the A/F mix. Float adjustments aren't hard to do. You'll want to remove the carb to work on it.

 

80% of most "carburetor problems" are actually ignition problems. When you did the swap, did you make sure that the timing tab on the front cover is the correct timing tab for the harmonic balancer? Chevy has used two different timing tab locations and two different harmonic balancer TDC points. Find TDC using a piston stop and make sure your timing tab matches the balancer. Then for an 86, you must have changed the distributor or disconnected the ESC module in some way. If you haven't you could have definite timing issues. Also, if you put some really light springs in the distributor advance you will have exactly the problem you have. The springs should be stiff enough that the mechanical advance does not start for at least 300RPM above your idle set speed. If it isn't at least 300RPM above idle set, it will not return to idle properly. Also, you should have your vacuum advance hooked up to ported spark (no vacuum to the vacuum advance at idle). If you have the vacuum advance hooked up to manifold vacuum at idle, you will have your problem. When you set your timing, make sure that the vacuum to the vacuum advance is disconnected or you could be setting the wrong timing. I've rebuilt over 10,000 carbs in 35 years and recurved over 8,000 distributors. Your problem sounds a lot more like the ignition is not set up properly as opposed to a carb problem.

 

or It sounds like your timing is off

 

QuiteTahoe raises a very good point as the original carburetor was a computer controlled set-up which was tied into the ignition/distributor as well.

Did you change to a standard HEI set-up with the new carb?

Also, we have a great online carb tutorial availble: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ech_vids.shtml