I noticed in another thread, your signature says you have compcam :212/218 558/563 115a. How do you like it? Do you have any hp #'s on it? Any tuning issues? I was thinking of that cam for my truck in the near future. Thanks for any Info.

 

Yes, I like it very much. Very minor tuning issues. I estimate about 330 rwhp based on 1/4 mile times. It has a broad and flat hp peak and pulls good to about 6200 with lots of mid range.

 

Whats the part number for that cam?

 

What other parts do you need/recomend for the install? Thanks for the Help!!!

 

Comp's # on the cam is 54-424-11 but you don't want one off the shelf. Custom order it straight from Comp and specify a 1.450" base circle. They have done several custom grinds for me and I have gotten them in 3-4 days. Buy the .050" longer than stock push rods to maintain your stock lash geometry. Also specify the intake centerline to be ground on 115. This way you will not need to drop the pan or pull oil pump to get to the crank timing gear or mess with the cam sprocket to alter cam timing. With normal chain stretch it ends up about 116-116.5. If its not a high milage engine you will not need any new gaskets. Just use a new crank pulley bolt. Best way to deal with that bolt is to use a 600-700 ft. lb. impact wrench to remove and retorque it. I like the Comp 915 springs with titanium retainers over. I feel the 918 springs are an over kill for this cam and will just give you more noise and a shorter spring life. Use a JPR tool to hold lifters up and a More Performance tool to change valve springs. Got mine from Thunder Racing.

 

I have my second cam going into my truck tomorrow and although I admit not hitting LS1tech too often, I still have not ever heard of doing what you are talking about. Why the change in length for the pushrods? I haven't had a need to drop the oil pan or pump until now, but only because I want to replace it (pump, chain). And if I wanted to advance the cam, and I'm getting a custom grind, why not get it ground in advance?

Don't mean to sound like I'm attacking you, just trying to understand.

Mine is a custom grind, it took almost a month to get. I guess it depends on the backlog.

 

I'll try and explain. Our truck cams have big base circles..1.550". Off the shelf .55x lift cams have 1.490" base circles (base circle + 2 times the lobe lift has to be less than cam journal diameter). This combination will loosen your lash by .030". Push rods are available in .050" increments so take another .040" off the base and add .050" to the push rod ( you need new hardened push rods anyway) and you keep the lash exactly the same. The particular cam we are talking about comes +2 ground in off the shelf. I'm just saying you don't need +2 for 6.0 motors with low gears and stall converters. So while you are doing a custom grind do it on a 115 int cl. I would think this theory on cl would apply to that radix also (sure wish I had one...maybe by the summer). Hope this helps.....

 

I just dropped a cam in today. It's a 214/220 .559/.564 116LSA, ground +4, 112cl. Don't know how it runs yet, still without any heads on it. Thanks for the explanation.

 

Did you by any chance measure the base circle on that cam? Also what size was the cam you are replacing?

 

No, I didn't measure. I had the Comp 212/218.