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6.0 Buildup - Your advice wanted.

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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 09:56 AM
  #61  
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I'm not shooting for a specifc power lever. I'm just trying to build a solid engine with known good performance upgrades. I'm hoping for a little over 400, but that's just a guess. I did not get an answer on the CR. I'm thinking it should be about 10.7:1 wil .051 gaskets.

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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 09:59 AM
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I just this morning learned of the Fel-Pro 1041 gaskets. These are .041" thick. However, the bore is 4.135". Is that too big on this setup? Am I correct in thinking that the diameter of the combustion chamber will be a little larger on my 243 heads once they're milled .035"? I'm not worried about reuseability, or being harder to clean up, should the need arise. I just don't want to use Cometics, so it's either these or GM gaskets.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 01:59 PM
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For the build I'm doing here, is there any need for me to upgrade from GM rod bolts? I'm hoping for 400-425 HP and will not be spinning it over 6000-6200. GM bolts are $62 and no concerns with the rods needing resized. Katechs are $200. ARPs are only $90, but questionable on needing resized.

If I bought ARPs, could I simply bolt the caps on and check for out of round, or is there more to it than that?

I want to build smart, but don't want to throw money where it's not needed.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 02:30 PM
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The first of the goodies has arrived Yank PT3200.



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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 11:33 AM
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Will my stock 5.3 injectors be sufficient for this build?
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by blsnelling
Will my stock 5.3 injectors be sufficient for this build?
I don't think so....with a 220/224 cam in a 6.0, and head work, I think that you'd even be pushing the limits of 31# 8.1 gas injectors. I'd go with the 8.1 marine injectors to play it safe, they're 42# I believe. Plus, if you ever go bigger on the cam, you should still be able to reuse them.

As for the rod bolts, I believe that the stockers will be fine, but some upgraded rod bolts are cheap insurance. Check the internal section for a thread I started calle "ARP Rod Bolt Roll Call", there's a bunch of good info in there. From what I remember, the ARP's are a direct replacement as long as you remove the sleeves that are in there. The Katech's are a direct replacement and the last rod bolt that you'll ever need, but as you already know, they're big bucks :nod;
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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Are those 8.1 marine injectors the correct lenth for the TBSS intake? Are those PN 17113739? That PN doesn't come up at SDPC.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 02:00 PM
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Another new part today. Thanks Yank, for the LS2 HD timing chain and gears!


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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by blsnelling
Are those 8.1 marine injectors the correct lenth for the TBSS intake? Are those PN 17113739? That PN doesn't come up at SDPC.
Not sure on that one, they're plug and play for the truck intake, so if the TBSS intake is different, then no...
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by blsnelling
For the build I'm doing here, is there any need for me to upgrade from GM rod bolts? I'm hoping for 400-425 HP and will not be spinning it over 6000-6200. GM bolts are $62 and no concerns with the rods needing resized. Katechs are $200. ARPs are only $90, but questionable on needing resized.

If I bought ARPs, could I simply bolt the caps on and check for out of round, or is there more to it than that?

I want to build smart, but don't want to throw money where it's not needed.
If you wanted to build smart, you would leave everything as it is. There's absolutely no reason to change any rod bolts, timing chain, oil pump, lifters, etc. I firmly believe all these "must change" myths were started by vendors trying to make an extra buck.
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