I have seen the light at the end of the tunnel for one project. Shortly it will be time to give the 1500 a little attention. As far as I know it's all stock except for a catback (I think flowmaster) and it's a 01 Z71 with the 5.3.

Only took it to the track once since it's my main transportation, and in three passes only managed a 16.3. Later I realized it was in OD if that would have made a difference.

Goals:
13.5-13.9 ish
No nitrous
Blower would be nice but can't afford it right now
Easily a DD
Keep away from major builds( new motor, tranny, rear.)


I would be open to heads, cam, stall as long as it wouldn't kill me as far as driveability and still pass VA inspection. So what are my options here? What do these motors like? What's the most cost effective route? It won't be a race truck, I just feel like such a turd on the street. It may make a trip or two at the track just for kicks or if the Camaro takes a dump.

If I can't hit 13s N/A then ohwell. However close I get is good enough until I have more money.

Just to throw out a budget number let's say $4k over the next year or so. Any Ideas or suggestions are appreaciated.

 

Go with some type of headers. Alot go with the Pacesetter. Intake, Custom Tune, a cam that will fit your needs,gears and a stall here would be a good start.

 

get
LT's--500
Cam w/ correesponding parts--650
Dyno Tune--~500
Gears--1000 front and rear
heads--1200
CAI--100 or custom
stall--550

that list should get you going pretty well. if you are trying to get places in a hurry you can save some money on the small bolt ons like efans, underdrive pulleys, TB stuff, thermostat etc but know that those small things will end up giving you gains and help support the bigger mods listed above.

 

Alright sounds good to me. How aggressive of a head and cam package are we talking here?

 

you would want to do the converter at the same time of cam, i would go with aom stage II patriot heads or PM richard@WCCH and talk to him about their new heads. i would go with a 224/224 112 .588 or something style cam if you still want it to be good on the street and everything. you would be a little doggy down low but thats alright unless you wanted to keep some of your low end in which case you could do a 220/224 112 or a 216/222 or something like that. i would get in the area of a 3000 or 3200 converter for the 224's but if you went with the 216 you could use a TB converter and save some money or something

 

I wouldn't even mess with heads yet. Save the money you'd spend on heads and buy a built trans, you'll need one sooner or later. And for reference, check out Finish Line Transmission to the right in the sponsor list.

 

for a set up like yours, you need grunt to get off the line. first step up to like 410s or 430s, next get something like 2800 to 3200 rpm stall. now for intake get some time of CAI, get some Efans, free up that exhaust run some midlenghts or LTs. if you can get away with no cats do it if not then go with cats of course. ok now move onto the motor. personally the 5.3 head is a decent head for a budget. i would send then out to get a 2.0 valve installed. while youre there get a decent valve job and have them port match the heads. this will be benefical. this will also be the cheapest since you can find these heads on your motor of off someone very cheap. if you use your heads you may have 400 bucks tops into the heads. now get a set of springs 918s work well. i use them on my TV2 cam. now get a cam that will work in your rpm range and weight of truck. i woudl say something that peaks around 6k and has power off idle. something like the cheater it makes power off idle but i think it revs to 6500 which you dont want but you want a cam that makes power off idle to help in aid of moving that heavy piece of yours. and look for a tighter LSA which will help with the DCR. o forgot have alittle taken off the heads to up your SCR. all this will play a role in with your DCR. a homeported tb is nice since its only your time and can show results. dont expect alot but youll get some but since its free its worth it. then of course get either a dyno tune or a mail order tune. i run a mailorder and seems to run well

 

why would he get a stall and a cam that would run off idle? thats just wastin the power from 700 to 2800 or whatever because when he launches he wont be there...

 

please please please do some more researching. please!!!
just cause you launch there doesnt mean you drive there, if he wanted a race setup i woudl sugest something more wilder but he just wants a fun DD, reason i said what i did.

 

ok well that makes sense, he just said he wanted to be in 13's so i was going more aggressive so he'd be there faster, fasteddie, yes do your research