I just got done with my 4l80e Trans swap, drove it around the block and checked for leaks, everything looked good, so I went to do some HP Tuner logging. After everything was up to operating temp, I got on it a couple times and noticed, I had A TON of knock and let off. Then I got a miss fire code and limpet it back home. I started pulling plugs and found number five plug with no gap. I know it could be a few things but I'm thinking I spun a rod bearing. Now my Wife is Pissed (lol) I have very little money and need a engine.

Find a good used 5.3 and be done with it; I don't really want to waste too much money of this option. I wouldn't mind building a "FI" 5.3l, like F8L Z71 had with his 6.0l heads and cam ect.

Or find a 6.0. I had planed on this later in life. Should I do anything with the 6.0 be for the install? What years should I look for? (Mines a 2000). What else will I need for the swap besides the engine? What parts will swap over from my 5.3 as far as EGR and others? And lastly how much bigger of a turbo will I need? (I work at an International dealer and can get almost any turbo I need if I know how big)

Last I could buy a built "FI" Engine but I'd like to keep this on the cheaper side. I also have a ton of questions about this option too.

Let my know what route you would take, and any other ideas/parts that may help me. Thanks

 

I'd go 6.0 swap. Thats what I plan to do when my 5.3 breaks.

 

Yep, Straight 6.0 swap is what I would do. Thats what I have in mind when my 5.3 gets tired.

 

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6.0. nothing like cubic inches. i'm plannning (hoping) to start the 6.0 build soon, just to be one step ahead for when mine lays down.

 

Im starting to second guess my decision. After hearing about all of the "built" motors letting go, I was thinking I could go through 2-3 6.0 with head studs and rod bolts for the same cost as a "built" motor.
In your situation I would definately go 6.0 with rod and head bolts, Id also spring for an FMIC to assist the alky, you can really never get too much detonation suppression

 

I would check out your motor a little closer, before dismissing it as junk. A spun rod bearing isn't usually caused by knock. Knock usually will brake a ringland or a hole in the center of the piston, and you probably wouldn't have "limped" it home if that would have happened. I've had plugs mysteriously get smashed and the motor was still fine. Pull all the plugs and run a compression test and then see what you have.

 

I just restarted it with a new plug and it has a horable knock from down low. I think the high RPM is was did it in plus being stuck in first and second gear for a month and still driving it every day didn't help. Plus the engine has over 88,000 of well beaten miles.

 

I'd do a 6.0 with an 02 PCM...then you won't have to swap the EGR over (02's don't have EGR), and have the benefit of a more tuneable PCM without all of the KR problems that the 99-00's are known for. Plus, now you've already got the 6.0 that you wanted to do eventually anyway.

 

The 5.3L setup I had ran like a champ and despite the water suckage incident the rest of the motor looked great when we opened it up. The pistons and bores looked perfect even at 550rwhp or so.

IMO good 5.3L motors are CHEAP and easy to come by. Good 6.0L long blocks are not. At least not in our neck of the woods. I know of a few people who have been bamboozaled buying "low milage" 6.0L blocks as well.

If you have a hookup on rebuilding your current block you can simply get new pistons (low compression) and put the motor back together with some good rod bolts and be ready to jam. On a real budget you could just replace the offending piston with a stock unit and use the money saved for a set of 6.0L heads ($500 roughly).

You have lots of options but it all comes down to how much you want to shell out. Rebuilding your motor may be the cheapest and safest option unless you get a deal on a low milage 6.0L long block. *rolls the dice*