Sort of an interesting read. Worth looking into.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...n-bearing.html

 

The first thing I checked was that o-ring and it was fine; not pinched at all.

I didnt buy the shortblock straight from the machine shop, so I am not sure how or if they would handle that. Part of me thinks even if they cover a rebuild, its still going to be crap and I will be doing this again soon anyway so I may as well not even bother with them.

I have no qualms doing assembly myself, but I dont have the equipment, or more importantly in my opinion, the expertise and experience to do what needs to be done and done properly.

Tomorrow's game plan is to call several places like HKE, LME, and a place nearby called Hinson performance that does a lot with LSx engines. I would like somewhere local so I dont have to worry about shipping, but HKE has the reputation they do for a reason and shipping is a small price to pay for piece of mind IMO. Whatever shop I choose to take it to, I want the block oil passages cleaned, cylinders honed (even though they dont really need it), new pistons and rings (to lower CR), crank polished and checked, and block aligned, and obviously all the bearings replaced.

I checked the pistons carefully for cracks or chips and did not see any, but I didnt bother cleaning off the carbon. What is the best way to clean them?

I appreciate everyone's input very much

 

I see a few issues just from your tear down but before I say any thing I would like to know what brand crank is that?

 

He said it was a K1

 

Interesting... its a K1 forged stroker crank (346-4000RB6F-24)

 

Intresting... I am not sure about there quality but would assume it usally good as I have not heard anything bad. What about the company that did the short block? The way the bearing burned looks like you have an issue with the way the crank was machined. You may also have an issue with the block but only a reputable machine shop would be able to check that out correctly.

When they checked the Crankshaft journals they are supposed to check it at the center and at the outer edges near the fillet. They are also supposed to rotate measuring in different spots around the journal using a mic to checking for proper size.

It is very common these days since every thing is mass produced to have a journal be just out of spec. One of the local crank grinders had a batch of 20 name brand LS stroker cranks that had thrust journal issuess. Needles to say The builder found out 30 minutes after fireing the engine up and breaking it in on the dyno. On tear down he realized the main journal was hot in one spot. Just enough to make the cleareance to tight and eat the bearing. They started randomly grabing cranks out of the batch and relized they should have looked closer. After proply checking the journal they discovered it was to tight on one side near the fillet. The whole batch had to be corrected...

 

Sorry to hear about your motor issues, thinking I need to start a thread too!


btw...
1Fastbrick knows his

 

I am pretty sure the shop that made it is a small, obscure shop that does not specialize in engines. I tried finding info on them last night but all I could find was an address. This is exactly the reason I will be sending my stuff to HKE, or LME most likely. I hate doing things twice.

 

hke has a good rep... hope you get it all worked out soon cuz your truck rans awesome with it in there... this would also be a good time for some head work too

 

y the drop in compression atomic, it worked well with the TVS.. u thinking about a different type of FI now???