4.8 and 5.3 piston
10-10-2012, 06:35 PM
#41
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You're going .118" over
LS1 bore = 3.898"
LM7 bore = 3.780"
If he determined that it isn't possible w/o even testing the block you don't want him doing your machine work anyways imo.
If you're gonna go through with it find yourself a reputable machine shop that deals with LSx... even if it means driving 100 miles one way. I've fallen victim myself to 2 machine shops to claim to know what they were doing... one over bored my cylinder walls when he had the pistons on hand and the other installed the wrong cam bearings during assembly
LS1 bore = 3.898"
LM7 bore = 3.780"
If he determined that it isn't possible w/o even testing the block you don't want him doing your machine work anyways imo.
If you're gonna go through with it find yourself a reputable machine shop that deals with LSx... even if it means driving 100 miles one way. I've fallen victim myself to 2 machine shops to claim to know what they were doing... one over bored my cylinder walls when he had the pistons on hand and the other installed the wrong cam bearings during assembly
10-10-2012, 06:39 PM
#42
Matt may not want to deal with you Luke. Noah damn near drove him insane when Matt built his engine. Every time Matt suggested something, Noah would question it and want to know why he was doing what he did. Noah thought he was getting ripped off, when Matt was trying to do the right thing. He is extremely busy and does not have time to argue over someone that is trying to nickle and dime him to death. Matt has forgotten more about engines than what many others know about them. He does awesome work. He is not the cheapest around, but you get a damn good engine from him.
10-10-2012, 07:04 PM
#43
If you got it cheap enough punch that bitch out to an LS1. For your desired power level, forged is not necessary.
Sonic, hot tank, line bore, bore, polish crank you're probably looking at about $800.
Get yourself a set of LS1 pistons/rods out of a 04' GTO ($150) and throw a new set of rings in ($50) and some Katech rod bolts ($200). All new bearings ($300), ARP main studs ($200), head bolts ($50), LS9 headgaskets ($100), HD timing set from Yank ($72). Cam kit from thunder racing or TSP ($600) + LS6 oil pump ($150). Then just get a set of worked 799/243s.
Sell off all the stock 5.3 **** for a couple hundred bucks.
More cubes = more better
Sonic, hot tank, line bore, bore, polish crank you're probably looking at about $800.
Get yourself a set of LS1 pistons/rods out of a 04' GTO ($150) and throw a new set of rings in ($50) and some Katech rod bolts ($200). All new bearings ($300), ARP main studs ($200), head bolts ($50), LS9 headgaskets ($100), HD timing set from Yank ($72). Cam kit from thunder racing or TSP ($600) + LS6 oil pump ($150). Then just get a set of worked 799/243s.
Sell off all the stock 5.3 **** for a couple hundred bucks.
More cubes = more better
I spent 5 min and determined for what it cost to have a 5.3 maching to a 3.898 I could wait and buy a real LS1, and it only took about a week for one to come along.
All you local guys want 6.0's so 5.7's local are almost always cheap, thanks!
10-10-2012, 07:38 PM
#44
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How old are you? Just curious.
I spent 5 min and determined for what it cost to have a 5.3 maching to a 3.898 I could wait and buy a real LS1, and it only took about a week for one to come along.
All you local guys want 6.0's so 5.7's local are almost always cheap, thanks!
I spent 5 min and determined for what it cost to have a 5.3 maching to a 3.898 I could wait and buy a real LS1, and it only took about a week for one to come along.
All you local guys want 6.0's so 5.7's local are almost always cheap, thanks!
I can buy a longblock LS1 right now for $1,000 semi-local to me. It also has 130k miles on it and its already pulled from the car, thus making it impossible for me to know whether it has problems with it or not... all I have to go on is the sellers word and that's not good enough for ME.
Also I find it amusing that you're going to compare a 98/99 LS1 with 100k~ miles to a 5.3 spec'd out to an LS1 with ARP main studs, LS2 style connecting rods with Katech rod bolts, a new high flow oil pump, lifters that won't collapse as soon as you throw in a decent sized cam, HD timing chain, and all new bearings throughout. "Real" LS1s in their stock form (especially the earlier ones) are weak when you start talking about boost applications.
As I've stated in my earlier posts... it's all a matter of opinion and what you're desired power levels are. OP is not going to hit the desired power level with a 5.3 so I simply suggested punching it out to a LS1 with some beef to it incase he does decide down the road he wants to turbo it like mentioned earlier in this thread.
EDIT: Oh and I would feel comfortable running the engine I suggested up to 700hp all day long... a 99' 100k~ mile longblock that I don't know the history of, ehh... not so much.
Last edited by beastmode; 10-10-2012 at 07:47 PM.
10-10-2012, 07:47 PM
#45
28, not that it's relevant.
I can buy a longblock LS1 right now for $1,000 semi-local to me. It also has 130k miles on it and its already pulled from the car, thus making it impossible for me to know whether it has problems with it or not... all I have to go on is the sellers word and that's not good enough for ME
Also I find it amusing that you're going to compare a 98/99 LS1 with 100k~ miles to a 5.3 spec'd out to an LS1 with ARP main studs, LS2 style connecting rods with Katech rod bolts, a new high flow oil pump, lifters that won't collapse as soon as you throw in a decent sized cam, HD timing chain, and all new bearings throughout. "Real" LS1s in their stock form (especially the earlier ones) are weak when you start talking about boost applications.
As I've stated in my earlier posts... it's all a matter of opinion and what you're desired power levels are. OP is not going to hit the desired power level with a 5.3 so I simply suggested punching it out to a LS1 with some beef to it incase he does decide down the road he wants to turbo it like mentioned earlier in this thread.
I can buy a longblock LS1 right now for $1,000 semi-local to me. It also has 130k miles on it and its already pulled from the car, thus making it impossible for me to know whether it has problems with it or not... all I have to go on is the sellers word and that's not good enough for ME
Also I find it amusing that you're going to compare a 98/99 LS1 with 100k~ miles to a 5.3 spec'd out to an LS1 with ARP main studs, LS2 style connecting rods with Katech rod bolts, a new high flow oil pump, lifters that won't collapse as soon as you throw in a decent sized cam, HD timing chain, and all new bearings throughout. "Real" LS1s in their stock form (especially the earlier ones) are weak when you start talking about boost applications.
As I've stated in my earlier posts... it's all a matter of opinion and what you're desired power levels are. OP is not going to hit the desired power level with a 5.3 so I simply suggested punching it out to a LS1 with some beef to it incase he does decide down the road he wants to turbo it like mentioned earlier in this thread.
10-10-2012, 07:58 PM
#46
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Regardless of what you did the engine I've suggested he build will handle more hp/boost if properly built than an LS1... unless of course you've went completely forged. It's a LS1 built stronger than a LS2.
10-10-2012, 07:59 PM
#47
Matt may not want to deal with you Luke. Noah damn near drove him insane when Matt built his engine. Every time Matt suggested something, Noah would question it and want to know why he was doing what he did. Noah thought he was getting ripped off, when Matt was trying to do the right thing. He is extremely busy and does not have time to argue over someone that is trying to nickle and dime him to death. Matt has forgotten more about engines than what many others know about them. He does awesome work. He is not the cheapest around, but you get a damn good engine from him.
I was just trying get a quote from Matt so I can compare other machine shop then I can decide..Im curious if I do 4.8 piston flat top to 5.3 would be ok to run PLUS gas if tune set up for that?
Last edited by Go5.3tt06; 10-10-2012 at 08:07 PM.
10-10-2012, 08:35 PM
#49
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The L33 is very stout and very affordable. LS2 style connecting rods, LS6 heads, 05+ LR4 pistons, and I can't say for sure but I think they have a higher flowing oil pump and better lifters already in it. Trever1T was deep in to the 600hp range with a TVS1900 on his with nothing but a GT2-3 cam and valvetrain upgrades.
This would be the route I would go if I wanted to avoid machine work and rebuilding the engine.
10-10-2012, 08:55 PM
#50
Luke, imo dump that 5.3 you have now for a L33 if you're wanting to stick with that size bore and not get in to any machine work.
The L33 is very stout and very affordable. LS2 style connecting rods, LS6 heads, 05+ LR4 pistons, and I can't say for sure but I think they have a higher flowing oil pump and better lifters already in it. Trever1T was deep in to the 600hp range with a TVS1900 on his with nothing but a GT2-3 cam and valvetrain upgrades.
This would be the route I would go if I wanted to avoid machine work and rebuilding the engine.
The L33 is very stout and very affordable. LS2 style connecting rods, LS6 heads, 05+ LR4 pistons, and I can't say for sure but I think they have a higher flowing oil pump and better lifters already in it. Trever1T was deep in to the 600hp range with a TVS1900 on his with nothing but a GT2-3 cam and valvetrain upgrades.
This would be the route I would go if I wanted to avoid machine work and rebuilding the engine.
Im start process do my project. Take me a while.