212/218 dyno results w/ stock heads
#41
That cam sounds like a winner to me. Another item off the shopping list.
#42
That cam sounds like a winner to me. Another item off the shopping list.
#43
Please quit posting stuff like this. I have said that I won't mod my truck like my car.
Stuff like this makes it harder and harder.
Congrats on the results. 
Bruce
Stuff like this makes it harder and harder.
Congrats on the results. 
Bruce
#44
Hardtop - An 03 RCSB truck with headers and a fair sized cam would rock! 
Did you see the hot rod truck vid? http://www.prescribedpower.com/videos/hotrodtruck.mpg

Did you see the hot rod truck vid? http://www.prescribedpower.com/videos/hotrodtruck.mpg
#46
Hardtop - An 03 RCSB truck with headers and a fair sized cam would rock! 
Did you see the hot rod truck vid? http://www.prescribedpower.com/videos/hotrodtruck.mpg

Did you see the hot rod truck vid? http://www.prescribedpower.com/videos/hotrodtruck.mpg
My car is finished, utill I break something. Its going to be real hard to not modify the truck. I promised my wife I wouldn't mod the truck, but she's heard that lie to many times before.
UPD will be here Monday, so I guess its already started.
This cam looks darn good.Bruce
#47
How would the 212/218 .522/.529 work in relation to the one in the subject line?
Any reason CompCams didn't recommend this one to Yelo when he called? (his was 216/216 .559/.559 113*)
I'm after the same driveability that Yelo is after, minus a few thousand pounds in the towing area.
Any reason CompCams didn't recommend this one to Yelo when he called? (his was 216/216 .559/.559 113*)
I'm after the same driveability that Yelo is after, minus a few thousand pounds in the towing area.
#48
I installed the 54-412-11 cam (along with new comp valve springs, P/N: 26915 and new Comp steel retainers P/N: 774 along with new valve seals since my engine has 40,000 miles).
This is in a 2000 Yukon XL with the LQ4 Vortec 6000, K2500 with 4.10:1 axle ratio. I've been driving the vehicle with this cam for about two weeks now and I love the cam. The power band is great for a daily driver. I used my Hypertech III to bump the RPM limiter up to 6000 and my 1-2 shift is set at 5,800 and the 2-3 shift a little higher than stock. This cam slowed my idle speed down from 500 RPM to about 450 and I used the Torx fastener adjust screw under the throttle plate stop abutment to increase the idle speed to 550 RPM for a nice smooth stable idle (I do not have fly by wire throttle). I'm running 87 octane by the way.
This vehicle is my daily driver and I have a 1991 34', 8,000 pound travel trailer which I tow occasionally.
This is a great cam for my vehicle. Good midrange torque (beginning about 1,800 and much better HP in the upper RPM register. Still extremely streetable. I'm next adding a Volant air box with cold air scoop and long tube headers.
I sought advice on this cam from a variety of LS1 engine builders and head porters around the country and this is the type of power boosting combination (more or less that most recommended) for my driving profile.
Again, I love the cam and what it does for my vehicle. For street use, it's invisible until you mash the pedal to the metal and the engine has new-found power. I am going to dyno the engine before the Volant air induction and after and again after the headers, but this will be spread out over the next three or four months.
Note: It took me a lot longer than I had planned to install the cam and new springs, etc. I did it myself and and it took the about 4 full days and two evenings. I had planned on two and a half days. I am very meticulous and I have not torn into this engine before so there was a real learning curve. I used this URL http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23 as my primary guide, backed up by my factory manual. I used the 16 magnets to hold up the lifters, however they cost almost as much as the JPR tool from Thunder Racing. When I was ready to do the swap, Thunder Racing was out of the special lifter retaining tool and I bought the magnets. I'd buy the tool again if I had it to do over and had the lead time. Also, you really need a buddy to help speed up the work and share the adventure. Another tip, align the dots on the cam and driveshaft sprockets straight-up before removing the old cam.
Steve Bryant
Wichita, KS
This is in a 2000 Yukon XL with the LQ4 Vortec 6000, K2500 with 4.10:1 axle ratio. I've been driving the vehicle with this cam for about two weeks now and I love the cam. The power band is great for a daily driver. I used my Hypertech III to bump the RPM limiter up to 6000 and my 1-2 shift is set at 5,800 and the 2-3 shift a little higher than stock. This cam slowed my idle speed down from 500 RPM to about 450 and I used the Torx fastener adjust screw under the throttle plate stop abutment to increase the idle speed to 550 RPM for a nice smooth stable idle (I do not have fly by wire throttle). I'm running 87 octane by the way.
This vehicle is my daily driver and I have a 1991 34', 8,000 pound travel trailer which I tow occasionally.
This is a great cam for my vehicle. Good midrange torque (beginning about 1,800 and much better HP in the upper RPM register. Still extremely streetable. I'm next adding a Volant air box with cold air scoop and long tube headers.
I sought advice on this cam from a variety of LS1 engine builders and head porters around the country and this is the type of power boosting combination (more or less that most recommended) for my driving profile.
Again, I love the cam and what it does for my vehicle. For street use, it's invisible until you mash the pedal to the metal and the engine has new-found power. I am going to dyno the engine before the Volant air induction and after and again after the headers, but this will be spread out over the next three or four months.
Note: It took me a lot longer than I had planned to install the cam and new springs, etc. I did it myself and and it took the about 4 full days and two evenings. I had planned on two and a half days. I am very meticulous and I have not torn into this engine before so there was a real learning curve. I used this URL http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23 as my primary guide, backed up by my factory manual. I used the 16 magnets to hold up the lifters, however they cost almost as much as the JPR tool from Thunder Racing. When I was ready to do the swap, Thunder Racing was out of the special lifter retaining tool and I bought the magnets. I'd buy the tool again if I had it to do over and had the lead time. Also, you really need a buddy to help speed up the work and share the adventure. Another tip, align the dots on the cam and driveshaft sprockets straight-up before removing the old cam.
Steve Bryant
Wichita, KS
#49
Nice little write up Steve. I'm gonna start that same swap in the morning. But I have to work nights, so I won't get through. But 4 days?!?!?!?! I hope to be done in 4 to 6 hours total. I'm going to do it with out magnets though unless the local autozone has some. I gotta get a pulley puller anyway. Let us know the dyno results.
#50
Yes, nice write-up Steve. Thanks.
This definitely sounds like the cam for me... but as much as I hate to admit it, I wish you said this cam was nasty at idle.
I love the sound, and I love lowend power. The two just don't go together, do they?
This definitely sounds like the cam for me... but as much as I hate to admit it, I wish you said this cam was nasty at idle.

I love the sound, and I love lowend power. The two just don't go together, do they?
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