2001 5.3 Rod bolt question

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Feb 20, 2012 | 12:28 PM

#11

TXSZ66AVLANCHE

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Make sure to get those ARP bolt dead nuts on correct...many did not install, torque, and check the stretch correctly and have spun rod bearings.

Feb 20, 2012 | 01:04 PM

#12

88silvergt

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From: Houston, Tx

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gadgetized

I think they mean that if you place an order you will get 2 bolts. At least where I checked that part # was only $15.

No, they show the pics of the stud part and the nuts. I looked on both summit/jegs and thats what it shows. Scroll down towards bottom and look at the pic with that part number.

JEGS High Performance

And here is summit.
ARP 134-6026 - ARP High Performance Series Connecting Rod Bolt Kits - Suggested Parts - SummitRacing.com

Feb 20, 2012 | 01:38 PM

#13

AKlowriderZ71

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From: Wyoming

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88silvergt

Image is a representation of this part. Actual part may vary

Feb 20, 2012 | 01:41 PM

#14

AKlowriderZ71

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From: Wyoming

And I get a different part number, 134-6006 from the ARP catalog. I guess that's just a kit part number, vs 2 seperate bolts by themselves.

Last edited by AKlowriderZ71; Feb 20, 2012 at 02:02 PM.

Feb 20, 2012 | 01:44 PM

#15

CC05

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From: 912, GA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gadgetized

I ended up going with Katech rod bolts. I changed them in the truck by dropping the pan. It was not a hard job at all. If I had to do it over again, I am not sure if I would even do it. The biggest pain was the originals come with ferrules that need to be removed. After doing this, I seriously wonder if it put stress on the cap and could have distorted them. I think they make a puller for them, and I would get one if I were to replace bolts again.

And a lot of people have ended up distorting the rod cap for that exact reason. That's why I said to the OP, just avoid the rod bolts and drop the rpm's, which will most likely happen anyways because of where the power would come in with the turbo setup he's planning on. You can look at them as "cheap insurance", but they be more of a negative thing if they really aren't needed. I've got them and that's just my .02 cents.

Feb 20, 2012 | 01:45 PM

#16

CC05

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From: 912, GA

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71

And I get a different part number, 134-6006 from the ARP catalog.

Is this an updated part number? The number(s) I have are from when I purchased my bolts, which was quite a while back.

Feb 20, 2012 | 02:37 PM

#17

AKlowriderZ71

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From: Wyoming

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC05

Is this an updated part number? The number(s) I have are from when I purchased my bolts, which was quite a while back.

No, I think this is a case where we're both right.

One part number is a complete kit, and one part number is 2 bolts. Here's a screenshot of the ARP catalog.

They are listed as bolt style "E", and the pic on the left margin shows a regular bolt. Hope this helps with some of the confusion.

Here's a link to the installation instructions. http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/134-6006.pdf

Feb 20, 2012 | 02:39 PM

#18

CC05

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From: 912, GA

Awesome.

Feb 21, 2012 | 10:48 PM

#19

88silvergt

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From: Houston, Tx

Yea, i'm hearing that the rods usually give before the rod bolts. If thats true then its really not worth it. Does anybody know for sure what year they upgraded the rods in the 5.3? Are the ferrels (small sleeves) that hard to get out?

Last edited by 88silvergt; Feb 21, 2012 at 11:50 PM.