yes, another 60e post, a claim about a bullet proof 60e
10-04-2012, 09:39 PM
#11
10-04-2012, 10:23 PM
#13
yep we got a local guy that does a good job I blew mine up at 1:30 on the thursday before the throwdown got it out and to my trans guy by 2:30 I chased down parts and we had it back in the hoe by 7:00 that nite, you got some body down there thats good ?
10-04-2012, 10:37 PM
#14
Everybody is an expert until you start breaking stuff, then you must be doing something wrong because allegedly no one else has those problems...
What did you ruin or break in the 80???
10-04-2012, 10:46 PM
#15
2nd gear let go but we had been beating on it pretty hard for days with tuning runs , not sure if the torque management was off during the early runs . I also was running synthetic fluid dont know if those were even factors all I know is we smoked it
10-04-2012, 11:46 PM
#17
10-05-2012, 12:01 AM
#18
10-05-2012, 12:09 AM
#19
Read up on the HD kit on here before you do any thing https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...t-drum-506779/
10-05-2012, 06:55 AM
#20
As stated nothing is bullet proof and it most cases your built 80E is really nothing more than a shift kit and an added clutch in the direct clutch. There are some tricks that can help these units survive and most of which are the attention to the details! There are upgraded hard parts for these units when you start making good power and obviously like anything else this drives up the price of a well built 80E. No doubt in a 5500 gvw vehicle with 500+ rwhp an 80E is a smart choice.
As most of you know I have built more than my share of performance units. Both the 80E and the 60E will fail at one time or another. With a well built 60E including 5 pinion planets, sleeved input drum and a billet output shaft there is only so much you can push this unit. Forced 3-2 downshifts and heat seem to be what really puts a hurt on this unit. It seems that I can keep you guys from blowing the brains out of a 60E however at the end of the day the 3-4 clutch seems to always be the issue with the failures I have seen.
Recently sonnax has come out with a new input drum that is a factory drum that has been modified to add some room to play with the 3-4 clutch. They are calling this the Smart-Tech™ Input Housing Kit. You can check it out here if you would like. Sonnax - Aftermarket replacement transmission, torque converter, and high performance automotive parts
By using this drum I mean you can add frictions, add thicker frictions, add thicker steels or a combination of all mentioned above. This drum has some kind of treating done to the aluminum that is claimed to make the aluminum stronger. This drum also features billet apply and pressure plates and the 3-4 clutch snap ring has been eliminated. The idea here is that factory pressure/apply plates flex and the billet ones do not do this. When plates flex we loose contact surface and well obviously this reduces the clutches holding capabilities. I like the concept of this drum and think it will allow us to lean on these units a little more.
The one thing that I do not like with this drum is the fact that if you use this drum you need to use the 700R4 forward aluminum piston or their billet fwd piston. If you use a fwd steel bonded piston then you run the risk of having an over run clutch seal failure. If you run the factory aluminum fwd piston they like to crack. The price of their fwd piston is a little high IMO and there is a better solution.
Also with the sleeve they made they tried to make the sleeve idiot proof for install purposes. The sleeve basically has little windows and an oil groove cut in the bottom of it to allow oil to flow no matter where you place it. The issue I see here is they have reduced the clamping force on the drum with using this style sleeve. Traditionally sleeves always had a small slot cut into them to allow the over run clutch oil to get into the piston circuit. I like this better.
For years sleeved input drums have been used in 60E units. As mentioned above there are issues with using the factory over run piston and loosing the clutch oil for either the over run clutch or the forward clutch. Years ago I had an idea to make a billet over run piston and reposition the seal location verses the factory aluminum over run pistons seal location. As time went on myself and another guy I know had talked about this. Finally one was made one to be used with a steel bonded fwd piston. I did not agree 100% with his design and also had been working on one. I guess we both helped one another out with making this part and IMO there is not a better solution to helping this circuit live without failure.
I guess my point of this post is to inform some of you that there are some additional options that can be done to a 60E. In most cases when I see failures with a 60E its something that was built into the unit, going cheep on build, "lack of attention to details",the users driving habits, horsepower, heat or a combination of them. With the right parts, "the attention to detail", and the simple fact that this thing will have to be freshened up these units have their place. You have to choose what direction you would like to go and decide how much money you want to sink into a factory medium duty transmission. Thank you for your time and I hope this helps. Vince
As most of you know I have built more than my share of performance units. Both the 80E and the 60E will fail at one time or another. With a well built 60E including 5 pinion planets, sleeved input drum and a billet output shaft there is only so much you can push this unit. Forced 3-2 downshifts and heat seem to be what really puts a hurt on this unit. It seems that I can keep you guys from blowing the brains out of a 60E however at the end of the day the 3-4 clutch seems to always be the issue with the failures I have seen.
Recently sonnax has come out with a new input drum that is a factory drum that has been modified to add some room to play with the 3-4 clutch. They are calling this the Smart-Tech™ Input Housing Kit. You can check it out here if you would like. Sonnax - Aftermarket replacement transmission, torque converter, and high performance automotive parts
By using this drum I mean you can add frictions, add thicker frictions, add thicker steels or a combination of all mentioned above. This drum has some kind of treating done to the aluminum that is claimed to make the aluminum stronger. This drum also features billet apply and pressure plates and the 3-4 clutch snap ring has been eliminated. The idea here is that factory pressure/apply plates flex and the billet ones do not do this. When plates flex we loose contact surface and well obviously this reduces the clutches holding capabilities. I like the concept of this drum and think it will allow us to lean on these units a little more.
The one thing that I do not like with this drum is the fact that if you use this drum you need to use the 700R4 forward aluminum piston or their billet fwd piston. If you use a fwd steel bonded piston then you run the risk of having an over run clutch seal failure. If you run the factory aluminum fwd piston they like to crack. The price of their fwd piston is a little high IMO and there is a better solution.
Also with the sleeve they made they tried to make the sleeve idiot proof for install purposes. The sleeve basically has little windows and an oil groove cut in the bottom of it to allow oil to flow no matter where you place it. The issue I see here is they have reduced the clamping force on the drum with using this style sleeve. Traditionally sleeves always had a small slot cut into them to allow the over run clutch oil to get into the piston circuit. I like this better.
For years sleeved input drums have been used in 60E units. As mentioned above there are issues with using the factory over run piston and loosing the clutch oil for either the over run clutch or the forward clutch. Years ago I had an idea to make a billet over run piston and reposition the seal location verses the factory aluminum over run pistons seal location. As time went on myself and another guy I know had talked about this. Finally one was made one to be used with a steel bonded fwd piston. I did not agree 100% with his design and also had been working on one. I guess we both helped one another out with making this part and IMO there is not a better solution to helping this circuit live without failure.
I guess my point of this post is to inform some of you that there are some additional options that can be done to a 60E. In most cases when I see failures with a 60E its something that was built into the unit, going cheep on build, "lack of attention to details",the users driving habits, horsepower, heat or a combination of them. With the right parts, "the attention to detail", and the simple fact that this thing will have to be freshened up these units have their place. You have to choose what direction you would like to go and decide how much money you want to sink into a factory medium duty transmission. Thank you for your time and I hope this helps. Vince