I am not trying to argue either, it's all good man as I think we both ment the same thing. It's the interwebz and sometimes the message isn't as clear as if you are talking to someone.
I was just trying to get at who ever told him to use a Denali computer for the 80e needs to do more research.

 

Common sense.

 

I have a built 60 and changed planeteries so longer first gear less rpm drop between shifts billet and harden input n output nodified drum wider band clutches deep pan and t brake and everything u can add to it and no problems on it close to 460 rwhp n/a and 200 shot and it hold on great it is for sale though i demoded the truck 4l70

 

i had planned on building my 60e but picked up a 80e for very cheap so gonna rebuild it and swap it in

 

With a list like that I'd have to say you spent close the 3x the price of an 80E that has double the capability.

But then again I'm the guy that bored out a 5.3 rather than get a 6.0

 

Yea 3500 dam planeteries where 1200 alone t brake like 750 but i like how it performs alot better than the 80 since i was n/a most of the time only sprayed once
I had a built 5.3 also with morrels head cam holley intake and all the good stuff instead of getting a 6.0 like u lol i did change it out to a forged ls2 and only went 500 miles and 3 visits to the track

 

I think it is a matter of preference and what you are doing with the vehicle. I do a lot of stop and go driving and get kind of antsy with stupid drivers on their cell phones. Therfore I stomp it and really put the screws to the 4l60e/65e in my Avalanche. I did a 6.0 swap a little over a year ago and am on the second rebuild of the 60/65e trans. L:ast time it broke a new stock input drum and when it broke it just shattered the spined section. It was so bad I had a hard time getting the snap ring off to retrieve the spings for the reinforced input drum I installed this time. Mine has the 5 pinion planetaries and kevlar band and some updates from transgo including the smart shell and hd2 shift kit. I even set it up not to bang gears just tighten them up a bit just to try and make it last and the truck is just to heavy for the wide gear spit from 1-2. It is just a matter of time before the pesky 6.0 kills this one. So the pile of parts is starting for My 80e swap.
I did one in my 99 SCSB LS6 pickup when it munched the planetaries in the stock 60e. And that was in 07 when there weren't as many guys doing the swaps.

Go 80 if you are going to keep the vehicle for any amount of time, if your plan is to get rid of it in the next year or 2 just rebuild the one you got. Just my .02.
Jeremy

 

The only time I recommend keeping a 60e in a truck is if it is a NA 4.8/5.3 powered RCSB or ECSB.
Any larger vehicle needs an 80e.
Anything FI or sprayed needs an 80e.
If it tows then it needs an 80e.
Bigger than 5.3? Needs an 80e.
Beat on it hard regularly? 80e.
Keeping a 60e is great if your vehicle weighs less than 4400lbs, is NA and you never tow.

 

Find a new buddy that knows transmissions. The 4L60E is JUNK even the 65E or built to 65E. My first 4L60E lasted about 35K behind the stock L31 in a mildy driven vehicle. The second 4L65E spec unit lasted about 50K behind a 280-300 RWHP setup. Maybe it was the 6,200+ lbs Express van it was pulling around. That said I LOVE the 4L80E that is in it now. With partial torque management removal and slighly tweaked line pressure it will chirp the tires at 35 mph at part throttle and breaks the tires loose on the 1-2 shift at 50 MPH at WOT. I put a remanufactured GM B82 high stall converter in it and it has very similar performance off the line to the 4L60E with the S10 converter.

Cost me around $1K to swap over to a 100K used 4L80E and it was the best money I have spent.

 

Sounds like my best bet thanks bud