GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

weight reduction(nbs)

Old May 4, 2014 | 09:31 AM
  #31  
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That's what I plan on cutting out. Just don't have the time right now. Gotta have this truck running this week. Plan is to cut the frame off right on front of the upper control arm and box it in.. Ill have 1.5 " chromoly tubing come down and tie into the lower control arms and back up to the other side. Ill also have a hoop going forward to support the the core support along with some bracing. Ill get a mustang II manual rack and pinion and build the brackets to hold it.
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Old May 5, 2014 | 12:17 PM
  #32  
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damn you wernt kidding about cutting her up lol. but definitley a cool build man, since i use my truck as a truck i probably shouldnt cut all those supports out even though id love to trim some weight lol
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Old May 5, 2014 | 12:58 PM
  #33  
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Dirt, any idea the weight of that crossmember you cut out in the middle of the frame?
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Old May 5, 2014 | 11:59 PM
  #34  
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im kindve curious on what that front tubular crossmember weighs as well, i was eyeing mine today when i was doing my motor mounts lol. and also if id have issues taking that out and the bolt in crossmember without having to add anything else structurally
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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 11:07 AM
  #35  
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is there a weight advantage going from a brake booster setup to a hydroboost setup? also, any weight difference going from the 13" NNBS brakes to the 99-02 style? im bringing it back!
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 07:29 AM
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The weight difference from new to old style calipers would be very small. Not worth it, imo.

Hydroboost probably weighs the same as vacuum, but does give you better braking power...

Go aluminum block and Powerglide, that should shed some pounds!
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 03:56 PM
  #37  
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Seen someone say it. So going to cut the front off the bed off & rivet a sheet of aluminum between the cab & bed. Leaving the spot welds for the qaurters intact. Might even cut metal on cab under rear window & put a sheet there too.
Rear window going lexan maybe even plywood to give that sleeper hillbilly look.
Then going to hack up my dash. Cloth it & glass it.

Def going to need a cage.
Then crossing my fingers to be close to 4,000lbs
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 08:32 AM
  #38  
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Have ya considered ditching the iron block for an aluminum one? That's on my to do list come rebuild time...........
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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 08:26 PM
  #39  
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Damn I could never hack up my bed like that lol I'm just trying to get my weight down. It's 4581 without me in it and at its normal weight I'm thinking ditch the bumper for a roll pan gut the wiring and extra crap I don't use bogardts and a cf driveshaft. 4500 or less on 35s I'll be happy lol
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Old Oct 3, 2014 | 03:32 AM
  #40  
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I know my buddies are raggin on me. I'm going to get a piece of vinyl to cover up the holes. But its $1000 truck & that steel was pretty thick. I'm doing the front of the bed w a sheet aluminum. Lexan rear window, selling the slider for parts.
Gutted the interior, wish i had manual windows.
Started on the front. Trying to find a cheap used plastic bumper cover. & hacking up the front rails just so it bolts on.
Picking up a gemini nx MAS single kit today for $500.
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