Your driveshaft is steel right??

I always thought steel driveshafts could handle more than 100 mph. The big fat aluminum driveshafts you'd never want to go past 100 mph, they will vibrate and can explode.

 

The bigger the diameter the higher the speed. The longer the length the lower the speed. The stronger the material the higher the speed.

 

5.3 with 6-7lbs won't kill a 60e, remember u have more power loss with a 4l80. And also some more advice don't build for half a Season. Save ur money and just buy and build it once, I made that mistake a wasted 3-4k and it was pointless. There is a guy around Houston running 9's with a 4l60, he does own his own tranny shop but he has 4l60.

 

80e costs about 10-15hp over a 60e

 

Its a steel shaft w carrier. 2 pieces. Can i get that balanced.

Who does track bars or how much should i pay the local truck pulling guys to build?

I'm going just start w just w bolt ons i can swap. Shouldnt hurt. Plus i'm driving it this winter. I just want to give all time so get the best deals i can.

I'll never go turbo. Nobody by me does anything like that & an intake is big $. Plus i would want all the bells & whistles so i could drift. Then i'd really break it.

Its got the stock 16" aluminum wheels i'll keep & powdercoat. I really want this to be a sleeper w electric cutouts. Leave it rusty & age a lil. Thought about selling rear window just to put a crappy piece of lexan to make it hillbilly.

 

Could i find an camaro or firebird & steal the rear end guts out of that. 2wd trucks are not popular up here.

 

The camaro/firebird 10 bolt is smaller than the truck ones. If you are set on getting stock rear end stuff it may be wiser just to get a 4wd rear and swap the entire rear. Then you dont have to worry about backlash, pinion depth and all the stuff a gear and diff swap involves.

 

That was my first ?...whats the best 4wd rear? What eaton does everyone run for the street? Seen the arp stud conversion w t/a cover.