TruCool 40K question
04-18-2010, 04:59 PM
#21
I purchased my Tru-Cool Max from transmissioncoolers dot us, which has what seems to be very comparable prices to what has been posted. They are listing part # 4739 with external bypass for $154.35, part # 47391 without bypass for $130.10 and part # 708-4739P6 remote external bypass for $28.88. The external bypass is recommended for applications using a large cooler in cold climates with temperatures of 32 degrees or less.
04-18-2010, 05:06 PM
#22
I mean us. 
Thanks for all of the responses guys...I had an old thread called "plumbing a trucool" a while back asking about the AN fittings, seems the only ones that you can't get are the ones that go into the cooler since they're inverted flare or something like that. I'd definitely like to go that route, but not all of the way back to the trans just yet. I like the black hose that I've seen from Russell I believe, maybe Earl's. Unfortunately that can get expensive, so the An fittings and lines may have to be a future upgrade for now, with just the standard hoses and clamps for the initial install.
I'm going to search for your thread though Cody, since I already have a PermaCool, I could always do the trucool and hoses a little later down the road, before winter, ...
Bill, unfortunately it's a must here in the northeast, or our transmissions may never see lock up on the single digit / sub zero days, as well as any other complications that may arise from running too cold a tranny temp
Does anybody have a pic of the thermal bypass? I thought that it was part of the cooler, didn't realize that it was external...curious what it looks like and how it works...if anyone knows and understands it's operation, please do tell
I'm going to search for your thread though Cody, since I already have a PermaCool, I could always do the trucool and hoses a little later down the road, before winter, ...
Bill, unfortunately it's a must here in the northeast, or our transmissions may never see lock up on the single digit / sub zero days, as well as any other complications that may arise from running too cold a tranny temp
Does anybody have a pic of the thermal bypass? I thought that it was part of the cooler, didn't realize that it was external...curious what it looks like and how it works...if anyone knows and understands it's operation, please do tell
You can get the AN fitting the threads directly into the cooler. No problem, I believe I list those PNs in my thread.
Here is the external bypass
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=7
Basically has a thrermostat in it, you have an extra set of lines that totally bypass the cooler when the thermostat heats up enough it diverts the flow through the cooler. Alot of hoses going on in the front of the truck. There isnt a real need for the AN setup but it makes for a lot cleaner install and if/when you have to remove the trans its much easier. The other thing is I just dont trust barbed fittings and hose clamps when theyre holding that much pressure over time. The hose clamp inherently weakens the hose since the barb fitting is digging into the hose. I just dont trust them, but definitely something you can do later except for the fitting you have to screw into the side of the trans. That is going to be very difficult since you really have to put some pressure on the socket to drive it into the casing as you screw it in.
Id recommend keeping the trans cooler youve got now and spending the extra dough on the fittings for the trans and the lines. Just use the pushlock hose and clamps on the cooler side until you swap to the trucool then get the fittings that I used and have it all AN. FWIW I think I have about 120 bucks into my lines and all fittings needed and I used aeroquip fittings(cheap but good) and russel pushlock.
Here is the external bypass
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=7
Basically has a thrermostat in it, you have an extra set of lines that totally bypass the cooler when the thermostat heats up enough it diverts the flow through the cooler. Alot of hoses going on in the front of the truck. There isnt a real need for the AN setup but it makes for a lot cleaner install and if/when you have to remove the trans its much easier. The other thing is I just dont trust barbed fittings and hose clamps when theyre holding that much pressure over time. The hose clamp inherently weakens the hose since the barb fitting is digging into the hose. I just dont trust them, but definitely something you can do later except for the fitting you have to screw into the side of the trans. That is going to be very difficult since you really have to put some pressure on the socket to drive it into the casing as you screw it in.
Id recommend keeping the trans cooler youve got now and spending the extra dough on the fittings for the trans and the lines. Just use the pushlock hose and clamps on the cooler side until you swap to the trucool then get the fittings that I used and have it all AN. FWIW I think I have about 120 bucks into my lines and all fittings needed and I used aeroquip fittings(cheap but good) and russel pushlock.
1Bear or Cody, I thought that remote external bypass ( p/n 708-4739P6) isn't needed on the 4739 cause it includes it? I didn't verify yet, but hope that r.e.b. p/n is correct.
Last edited by fastnblu; 04-18-2010 at 05:12 PM.
04-18-2010, 05:26 PM
#24
I just want a seamless tranny R&R.
So apx. how many QTs. of fluid we talkin?
Andy said use Dex III not a synthetic.
I found this online: Note-It takes about 12 qts to flush an average GM trans in a full size truck but more may be needed to insure a complete flush. Not so important on a new vehicle but one with miles you want to be sure you push out all the old fluid and wasting a gallon is probably needed to accomplish that.:
So I need ~12 Qts. If this guy is sayin 1Gal (4 Qts) to flush, that would be added too, I think. However, Vince might throw Trans-flush in. Or is that Performabuilt?
So after tranny & stall, I still need some tidbits. This sound right?
1) Fluid
2) Tru-Cool 40K Cooler $110-160
3) AN Setup optional $120
4)Tranny temp gauge. I'll be running Autometer Cobalt, so either mech. or electric? est. $50-200. The Autometer manifold if I plumb gauge thru pan like on my last truck. est. $35, if I go this route.
or 4B) Get a different cluster w/. trans temp. $150-300.
and the programming for mileage if I go that route. Ya gotta program for options too, right? est. $50-100
This ancillary stuff adds up fast. 
So, I talked to a friend & I said 4 HRS to swap out trannies. He said 8 Hrs. Cause ya gotta flush too, right? I'll be doin on my back BTW.
How long to plumb TruCool?
What about if I do AN route?
So apx. how many QTs. of fluid we talkin?
Andy said use Dex III not a synthetic.
I found this online: Note-It takes about 12 qts to flush an average GM trans in a full size truck but more may be needed to insure a complete flush. Not so important on a new vehicle but one with miles you want to be sure you push out all the old fluid and wasting a gallon is probably needed to accomplish that.:
So I need ~12 Qts. If this guy is sayin 1Gal (4 Qts) to flush, that would be added too, I think. However, Vince might throw Trans-flush in. Or is that Performabuilt?
So after tranny & stall, I still need some tidbits. This sound right?
1) Fluid
2) Tru-Cool 40K Cooler $110-160
3) AN Setup optional $120
4)Tranny temp gauge. I'll be running Autometer Cobalt, so either mech. or electric? est. $50-200. The Autometer manifold if I plumb gauge thru pan like on my last truck. est. $35, if I go this route.
or 4B) Get a different cluster w/. trans temp. $150-300.
and the programming for mileage if I go that route. Ya gotta program for options too, right? est. $50-100
This ancillary stuff adds up fast. So, I talked to a friend & I said 4 HRS to swap out trannies. He said 8 Hrs. Cause ya gotta flush too, right? I'll be doin on my back BTW.
How long to plumb TruCool?
What about if I do AN route?
Last edited by fastnblu; 04-18-2010 at 05:49 PM.
04-18-2010, 05:55 PM
#25
Id pick up a case of fluid, it doesnt take very much more with the larger cooler. I use the cheapo stuff, IMO there isnt really any difference. I would just go with an escalade cluster, you get a 120mph better looking cluster with trans temp gauge. Why reprogram the mileage? You know how much is on the truck and its a nice counter for how many miles you have on the trans
I can do the swap in 3 hours busting my *** but Ive done it a few more times than Id care to count. Id think someone doing it for the first time is in for twice that time. Youre lucky since usually the biggest PITA of a trans swap is getting the manifold/ypipe out but youve got an aftermarket setup that isnt slip fit so it should come down nice and easy.
I wouldnt flush the system unless you find crud in the pan of your stock trans. There is no reason to, now bud may need to pay attention to his fluid and make sure its not contaminated. The lines wont take very long at all to run. Just mock it up before hand so all you have to do is put the line ends on the cooler side. I can take some pics some time this week when I make my way out into the garage to finish putting my truck back together. My mounting isnt pretty but its solid and works, you cant see it behind the grill anyway and Im not going for a show truck just a functional truck.
I can do the swap in 3 hours busting my *** but Ive done it a few more times than Id care to count. Id think someone doing it for the first time is in for twice that time. Youre lucky since usually the biggest PITA of a trans swap is getting the manifold/ypipe out but youve got an aftermarket setup that isnt slip fit so it should come down nice and easy.
I wouldnt flush the system unless you find crud in the pan of your stock trans. There is no reason to, now bud may need to pay attention to his fluid and make sure its not contaminated. The lines wont take very long at all to run. Just mock it up before hand so all you have to do is put the line ends on the cooler side. I can take some pics some time this week when I make my way out into the garage to finish putting my truck back together. My mounting isnt pretty but its solid and works, you cant see it behind the grill anyway and Im not going for a show truck just a functional truck.
04-18-2010, 06:17 PM
#26
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i got mine from bulkpart as well... for the piping, i just used some rubber hose and hose clamps. It's behind my CTS-V HE so you can't see it anway. I'm not too worried about asthetics.
04-18-2010, 07:19 PM
#27
Id pick up a case of fluid, it doesnt take very much more with the larger cooler. I use the cheapo stuff, IMO there isnt really any difference. I would just go with an escalade cluster, you get a 120mph better looking cluster with trans temp gauge. Why reprogram the mileage? You know how much is on the truck and its a nice counter for how many miles you have on the trans
I can do the swap in 3 hours busting my *** but Ive done it a few more times than Id care to count. Id think someone doing it for the first time is in for twice that time. Youre lucky since usually the biggest PITA of a trans swap is getting the manifold/ypipe out but youve got an aftermarket setup that isnt slip fit so it should come down nice and easy.
I wouldnt flush the system unless you find crud in the pan of your stock trans. There is no reason to, now bud may need to pay attention to his fluid and make sure its not contaminated. The lines wont take very long at all to run. Just mock it up before hand so all you have to do is put the line ends on the cooler side. I can take some pics some time this week when I make my way out into the garage to finish putting my truck back together. My mounting isnt pretty but its solid and works, you cant see it behind the grill anyway and Im not going for a show truck just a functional truck.
I can do the swap in 3 hours busting my *** but Ive done it a few more times than Id care to count. Id think someone doing it for the first time is in for twice that time. Youre lucky since usually the biggest PITA of a trans swap is getting the manifold/ypipe out but youve got an aftermarket setup that isnt slip fit so it should come down nice and easy.
I wouldnt flush the system unless you find crud in the pan of your stock trans. There is no reason to, now bud may need to pay attention to his fluid and make sure its not contaminated. The lines wont take very long at all to run. Just mock it up before hand so all you have to do is put the line ends on the cooler side. I can take some pics some time this week when I make my way out into the garage to finish putting my truck back together. My mounting isnt pretty but its solid and works, you cant see it behind the grill anyway and Im not going for a show truck just a functional truck.
I R&R'd my 89 c1500 3x.
Same trans, lot cleaner under 04 tho. I just figured any trans R&R, blown up or not, gets a flush. I've got 70k too. Who knows what in the tranny that Vince will get back.
I'm on vaca this week, wonder if I should just plumb TruCool now?
And / or lines?
It's been a while since I last did AN. They weren't push-lok. I remember tryin to make clean cuts & how my fingers thanked me from the cuts & my finger pads wore down so I down have fingerprints anymore.
IIRC, I had help before on AN. This time it'd jus be me. I could mock em now & take care of plumbing on bench. So when the time comes, just remove old & put in new.
Ya, I'd really appreciate your pics, as Billy prolly would too.
Maybe not tho, he's a wrench, I'm not.
04-18-2010, 07:29 PM
#28
Reprogram cluster is how I roll.
I R&R'd my 89 c1500 3x. Same trans, lot cleaner under 04 tho.
I just figured any trans R&R, blown up or not, gets a flush. I've got 70k too. Who knows what in the tranny that Vince will get back.
I'm on vaca this week, wonder if I should just plumb TruCool now?
And / or lines?
It's been a while since I last did AN. They weren't push-lok. I remember tryin to make clean cuts & how my fingers thanked me from the cuts & my finger pads wore down so I down have fingerprints anymore.
IIRC, I had help before on AN. This time it'd jus be me. I could mock em now & take care of plumbing on bench. So when the time comes, just remove old & put in new.
Ya, I'd really appreciate your pics, as Billy prolly would too. Maybe not tho, he's a wrench, I'm not.
I R&R'd my 89 c1500 3x.
Same trans, lot cleaner under 04 tho. I just figured any trans R&R, blown up or not, gets a flush. I've got 70k too. Who knows what in the tranny that Vince will get back.
I'm on vaca this week, wonder if I should just plumb TruCool now?
And / or lines?
It's been a while since I last did AN. They weren't push-lok. I remember tryin to make clean cuts & how my fingers thanked me from the cuts & my finger pads wore down so I down have fingerprints anymore.
IIRC, I had help before on AN. This time it'd jus be me. I could mock em now & take care of plumbing on bench. So when the time comes, just remove old & put in new.
Ya, I'd really appreciate your pics, as Billy prolly would too.
Maybe not tho, he's a wrench, I'm not. https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...t=trans+cooler
Post 15 has pics of my old setup with everything you need to know. That setup was with regular braided line this time Im going with pushlock for ease of assembly. To cut braided line all you have to do is wrap the part you are cutting iwth electrical tape and it wont fray so bad when you cut it.
04-18-2010, 08:15 PM
#29
Lazy ***
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...t=trans+cooler
Post 15 has pics of my old setup with everything you need to know. That setup was with regular braided line this time Im going with pushlock for ease of assembly. To cut braided line all you have to do is wrap the part you are cutting iwth electrical tape and it wont fray so bad when you cut it.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...t=trans+cooler
Post 15 has pics of my old setup with everything you need to know. That setup was with regular braided line this time Im going with pushlock for ease of assembly. To cut braided line all you have to do is wrap the part you are cutting iwth electrical tape and it wont fray so bad when you cut it.
Last edited by TIM Z; 04-18-2010 at 08:16 PM. Reason: spelling
04-18-2010, 08:20 PM
#30
Lazy ***
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...t=trans+cooler
Post 15 has pics of my old setup with everything you need to know. That setup was with regular braided line this time Im going with pushlock for ease of assembly. To cut braided line all you have to do is wrap the part you are cutting iwth electrical tape and it wont fray so bad when you cut it.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...t=trans+cooler
Post 15 has pics of my old setup with everything you need to know. That setup was with regular braided line this time Im going with pushlock for ease of assembly. To cut braided line all you have to do is wrap the part you are cutting iwth electrical tape and it wont fray so bad when you cut it.
Everything except p/n's.
Honestly, I'll prolly do Aeroquip satin, w/. red / blue. The idea of black would be more low key tho.
Choices. Ya, I 1st tried other methods, but found a cutoff wheel is far superior. And yes, I do the e-tape too.