On The Tree
I don't think you install the high rev springs on a standard shift kit install. They are only used if you are rebuilding the whole trans. Thats why it says- if transmission is apart- install these.
On The Tree
I recently put a transgo shift kit, servo, and yank 2600 stall in my truck. After I installed the turbo it was apparent that it really needed a shift kit. The shifts were taking too long and sometimes it would just hang there for a second and then shift out.
After the install, even with some TM left in, it shifted nice and quick.
I set up my kit a little soft. On the seperator plate, I just drilled the 1-2 shift to the first size hole, and left all the washers(spacers) out of the 2nd accumulator. Of course the stall makes it a little softer too. Drives great, barely notice the shift kit until above 1/2 throttle. Blows the tires off on the 1-2 shift at wot under boost.
While your in there- go ahead and replace the 2nd accumulator "plastic" piston to a metal one. The shift kit puts stiffer springs on this part. Mine broke after a few weeks and would not shift to 2nd gear.
After the install, even with some TM left in, it shifted nice and quick.
I set up my kit a little soft. On the seperator plate, I just drilled the 1-2 shift to the first size hole, and left all the washers(spacers) out of the 2nd accumulator. Of course the stall makes it a little softer too. Drives great, barely notice the shift kit until above 1/2 throttle. Blows the tires off on the 1-2 shift at wot under boost.
While your in there- go ahead and replace the 2nd accumulator "plastic" piston to a metal one. The shift kit puts stiffer springs on this part. Mine broke after a few weeks and would not shift to 2nd gear.

TECH Enthusiast
No, I didn't get a video. Are you sure yours is the HD? I thought only the basic kit had it. Mine reads reprogramming kit.
Quote:
They are only used if you are rebuilding the whole trans. Thats why it says- if transmission is apart- install these.
The guy I bought it from said it was only a little more involved and I've read before that it was only a little more involved. That leads me to believe that it doesn't have to be totally rebuilt to install it. I'm sure it is easier though.They are only used if you are rebuilding the whole trans. Thats why it says- if transmission is apart- install these.
TECH Veteran
HD kit is for professionals and does not have the video. It is actually cheaper than the retail version, since it is a barebones kit (parts only for the most part). The retail kit has the video, is for the do-it-yourselfer, and costs a little more. I've heard you can get the HD kits for 50-60 bucks on EBay.
TECH Fanatic
Honestly guys, I was going through the same heartburn as you guys when I first looked at doing this. I was able to find these two posts which help me visualize it a little bit more. It's so much clearer when you get the pan off, really is straightforward from the directions. I was going to do a writeup, but you really don't gain a whole lot over the regular directions, and I didn't have the video (and had never seen any internal trans part in my life).
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...07htp_projls1/
Can't find the other one right now. I can search some more if you need it.
Andrew
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...07htp_projls1/
Can't find the other one right now. I can search some more if you need it.
Andrew
TECH Enthusiast
Acually, the basic kit sk 4l60e--j goes for $39.50 and the HD kit 4L60E-HD2 goes for $81.75 at the same store on ebay.
TECH Fanatic
Quote:
After the install, even with some TM left in, it shifted nice and quick.
I set up my kit a little soft. On the seperator plate, I just drilled the 1-2 shift to the first size hole, and left all the washers(spacers) out of the 2nd accumulator. Of course the stall makes it a little softer too. Drives great, barely notice the shift kit until above 1/2 throttle. Blows the tires off on the 1-2 shift at wot under boost.
While your in there- go ahead and replace the 2nd accumulator "plastic" piston to a metal one. The shift kit puts stiffer springs on this part. Mine broke after a few weeks and would not shift to 2nd gear.
I know that you mentioned that you installed non of the spacers for the 2nd accumilator. I am wondering if I to should go this route. Right now I have a 3000 stall on mine (just intalled it yesterday Originally Posted by ronn25
I recently put a transgo shift kit, servo, and yank 2600 stall in my truck. After I installed the turbo it was apparent that it really needed a shift kit. The shifts were taking too long and sometimes it would just hang there for a second and then shift out.After the install, even with some TM left in, it shifted nice and quick.
I set up my kit a little soft. On the seperator plate, I just drilled the 1-2 shift to the first size hole, and left all the washers(spacers) out of the 2nd accumulator. Of course the stall makes it a little softer too. Drives great, barely notice the shift kit until above 1/2 throttle. Blows the tires off on the 1-2 shift at wot under boost.
While your in there- go ahead and replace the 2nd accumulator "plastic" piston to a metal one. The shift kit puts stiffer springs on this part. Mine broke after a few weeks and would not shift to 2nd gear.
) On the directions it says to install 3 spacers if you are running a high stall and want a good firm shift. But I have heard putting the 3 with the stall makes a hard as 1-2 shift. This is something that i do not want. I know that you can always take them out if you want, but wondering if i should put 0,1,2 or 3 spacers. I dont know. I want firm shifts under hard acceleration but I do not want some banging my head back while I am cruising.Banned
Ive always heard of going with 2.... My buddy SS silverado with a 3000yank went with 2 and it shifts really nice...
On The Tree
If you have a 3000 stall, then I would do one or two. My shifts are awesome at 3/4 to wot with no spacers, and I have a 2600. I think the spacers really make a noticable difference at part throttle. I didn't want a harsh part throttle shift. You can raise or lower line pressure some to fine tune it after the install. You can also pull the pan and change the spacers easily, I don't think you have to pull the valve body, just 3 bolts on the accumualtor housing if I remember right.