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torque converter installation comments(4wd)

Old Apr 16, 2005 | 10:04 PM
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01Tahoetwinscrew's Avatar
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Default torque converter installation comments(4wd)

I just started the installation of my TT3000 converter today and would like to thank this board for the tips and tricks that have made this swap go smoother. If someone has swapped a converter in a 4WD truck without removing the transfer case, they have some special skills that I lack. I am using my buds shop with a lift and tranny jack. Also, I am installing the Dynatech headers at the same time since the exhaust needs to be removed to drop the tranny. My truck is a '00 and those allen head torque converter bolts proved to be quite a bastard and one of them required some special treatment. Snap on makes a special "bolt extractor" socket that has a wave pattern in it that I used on the bolt that decided to round on me before it broke loose. It was sized 15mm and it required a little hammering to set it on the bolt before loosening. Why did GM use such cheap bolts that seem to be made of pot metal on a torque converter bolt? Damn, no wonder there is a TSB for these bolts. Two of them came out the way GM intended but I was ready because of the comments here. My access may have been better than most because I had the manifolds removed and the inner fenders removed as well, so I could see everything and install the headers easily. I think the stock torque converter is the heaviest converter that I have ever felt easily weighing in excess of 60lbs. The new Yank felt much lighter in comparison. Hopefully this post may help someone that is going to attempt the install themselves. I would have never attempted this install without a lift and tranny jack...that is for sure. It makes perfect sense why people are willing to pay $250-$400 to get their torque converter installed....it is a big PITA.
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 12:06 AM
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yea those damn allen bolts are a bitch. Meanless to say I pulled my tranny 3 weeks ago today and put it back in witha new converter and (**** kit) atleast thats what it make my tranny do. I pulled it back about again today but its not to bad. And yes I'm doing it on my back.
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 08:36 AM
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I just slid the tranny and transfer case back far enough to install my TCI. After I had it back as far as it would go I then dropped the front of the tranny down. Gave plenty of clearence. I had a lift and a pneumatic tranny jack though.
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 10:11 AM
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I'm starting to think about the Dynatech long tubes (actually I've thought about them and want em)...it'll be a while before I can afford them, so if this Yank2600 GP doesn't happen (getting close to the 21st and we're only half way there), I might just save up and get a verter and the LT's all in one shot. Especially since I'll be doing it on my back...makes sense to to do it all at once if possible.
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 02:20 PM
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i did mine on my back with just a jack. i left the transfer case in too. the only problem i had was getting a bolt on. the one that is behind the intake manafold. there was a little fanagling that had to be done but it went pretty well. i wish i still had access to a lift it would have made it a lot easier.

im glad that you like your because i love mine.
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 10:30 PM
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The TT3000 is a little looser than I anticipated but I still like it. If I knew it was going to be this loose I may have opted for the TT2600. Hopefully the track #'s will make up for the slight loss in streetability. Most of the aftermarket converters that I have installed in my vehicles only flash to the rated rpm and not actually "hover" at that rpm(or near it) all the time. This converter has more of a race feel to it. It is amazing to think that the rated towing capacity of this converter is only slightly lower than stock....it sure doesn't feel as if towing would be a good thing to do with the TT3000.
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