Thinking about going 80e
01-02-2012, 05:42 PM
#51
hey man, yep got the 80e, now i need everything else haha. My stock 60e in my crew cab had 180,000 miles on it before it lost 3rd and 4th. i got lucky, it had 4 years of drag strip runs, now it was only full bolt ons and 4.56s, but it did serve its purpose along time in the crew cab. The performabuilt did good for 2 years, only 1 year of that was with the cammed/blown 5.3, last 2 months of its life with cammed 6.0/ blower and 3200 circle D, broke on the 1-2 kickdown. a place called metal crafters in goldsboro nc i was told builds you a custom driveshaft with any yokes you want complete for like $425. i may go that route because i still have the 1 piece aluminum shaft. Im no good at wiring, i think ill just buy the crossmember from this site 4L60E to 4L80E Swap, Attention 4WD Owners with Superchargers, its expensive unless i can find someone to modify mine, no welder here. and need to find a stall and tru cool. I think bobbys tranny would do fine, but then you never know, i didnt think mine would blow up on a 1/2 throttle downshift either.
01-02-2012, 08:01 PM
#52
In a 2wd application its really not a big deal or expensive for that matter to modify the drive shaft. I know some guys say that they have not had to shorten there DS but keep in mind that the 80E is longer than the 60E. I know depending on your vehicles height and also the output shaft used the length of the DS should always be checked IMO.
Im looking at running 12psi(MAX) in 4WD in my ecsb 5.3 at the 1/8mi (only a couple times a year) launching in 4WD with a 2800(MAX) Circle D stall. Otherwise just cruising around at 8psi and having some fun on the street and hitting some shows. Would I be best to do the 80e swap or would a fully built 60e be good?
Ive seen people with much stonger and powerful setups still running 60/65s, even one with a 408/F1R cog drive AWD SS on a level7 without issues.
01-02-2012, 08:03 PM
#53
Mine made 333hp/354tq with the 65e, and 315hp/340tq with the 80e. Same dyno, same shop, similar weather. I did feel a difference, but didn't think it felt as different as everyone makes it out to be.
01-02-2012, 08:22 PM
#54
I'm not trying to be a dick, and I wouldn't want anyones stuff to break, ever. I just think the bigger the better. If a built 60e should take "600 ftlbs", and your making 450 whp, is it really rated a whp, or fwhp. That's a little close for me, so I swapped to a 80e, that I have seen many others run for years, with more power than me. BUT, I do know that eventually, mine will break, too, it just won't do it with a bang dumping fluid, it will just start slipping.
I drive easy 80-90% of the time, but it's nice to know that 10-20% of the time that I won't be left along a back road somewhere with a busted tranny, or oiling down the track pissing of 150-200 people.
I drive easy 80-90% of the time, but it's nice to know that 10-20% of the time that I won't be left along a back road somewhere with a busted tranny, or oiling down the track pissing of 150-200 people.
Your truck is one of the few on here that made me set my mind on my turbo kit. Ive just seen enough people running 60/65s with much more power then Im looking at making with success, that make me wanna give it a shot.
01-02-2012, 08:28 PM
#55
Hey Vince, I think Ive talked you before but I want your opinion on what YOU think would be good and should help the OP get an idea for what he needs.
Im looking at running 12psi(MAX) in 4WD in my ecsb 5.3 at the 1/8mi (only a couple times a year) launching in 4WD with a 2800(MAX) Circle D stall. Otherwise just cruising around at 8psi and having some fun on the street and hitting some shows. Would I be best to do the 80e swap or would a fully built 60e be good?
Ive seen people with much stonger and powerful setups still running 60/65s, even one with a 408/F1R cog drive AWD SS on a level7 without issues.
Im looking at running 12psi(MAX) in 4WD in my ecsb 5.3 at the 1/8mi (only a couple times a year) launching in 4WD with a 2800(MAX) Circle D stall. Otherwise just cruising around at 8psi and having some fun on the street and hitting some shows. Would I be best to do the 80e swap or would a fully built 60e be good?
Ive seen people with much stonger and powerful setups still running 60/65s, even one with a 408/F1R cog drive AWD SS on a level7 without issues.
01-02-2012, 08:51 PM
#56
Yea I read all that. Which is pretty much how I drive now. Unless Im at the track the truck stays out of tow/haul about 95% of the time. I do like a little burnout once in a blue moon however.
I dont disagree with doing the 80 swap I just think if youre making under 600HP and arent driving like you stole it all day everyday then there isnt a need. The weight and gearing of the 80e just doesnt seem too street friendly to me. Especially without making much power.
I dont disagree with doing the 80 swap I just think if youre making under 600HP and arent driving like you stole it all day everyday then there isnt a need. The weight and gearing of the 80e just doesnt seem too street friendly to me. Especially without making much power.
01-02-2012, 09:04 PM
#57
Did you also read the post by MFIC where he said everything that he does to keep it alive with the power he is putting down. No 4-1 downshifts, no tire spin at all, tq management on shifts, only getting on it in a perfectly straight line, and there were a few other things he said too. Personally I dont have the self-control for that.
01-02-2012, 09:13 PM
#58
Peace of mind goes a long way. An 80e swap is less than a well built 60e if you do it right. It is more involved, but once it is done, you will not have any more concerns about the transmission going out.
01-02-2012, 09:17 PM
#59
Did you also read the post by MFIC where he said everything that he does to keep it alive with the power he is putting down. No 4-1 downshifts, no tire spin at all, tq management on shifts, only getting on it in a perfectly straight line, and there were a few other things he said too. Personally I dont have the self-control for that.
If I'm out cruising/going for a drive, and a diesel, or f-body, hell even a civic comes up and rides my ***, or gets next to me and revs, you can bet on me cranking the boost, and giving them one hell of a beat down. I usually slow down, let them catch up to do a flyby, and hand it to them again just to show them how slow they really are. I don't see the point in having something that is such a blast to drive, but then having to babying it all the time, because I am afraid of breaking something. Even though at the track you are more likely to break, because you can actually hook sometimes.
black00chev 4x4 launches just feel like anything in the truck could break at any time. The truck jumps all over the place, but is not predictable at all, not out of control, but if you weren't paying attention it could be. It also makes some of the craziest sounds you will hear coming from a vehicle. You get used to it, but the first 5-10 times are scary.
01-02-2012, 09:21 PM
#60
I NEVER babied my 4L60e. If I started my truck on the weekends, you can bet that it would see 7k rpm several times before it was shut off again.
Letting the transmission automatically downshift at WOT is hard on ANY automatic transmission. I don't care if baby Jesus himself put the transmission together. If you go from 4-2 or 3-1 at WOT, it will eventually hurt anything.
Letting the transmission automatically downshift at WOT is hard on ANY automatic transmission. I don't care if baby Jesus himself put the transmission together. If you go from 4-2 or 3-1 at WOT, it will eventually hurt anything.