T-56 Or 4l60e
T-56 Or 4l60e
04-01-2011, 02:54 PM
#2
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You should definitely do it! Search for The Official A4 to M6 thread. Lots of guys have done it. And as long as you're not dumping the clutch all the time to try to smoke your tires off, you should get better mileage with the stick.
04-02-2011, 08:27 PM
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If you can drive it won't....
I haven't been to the track since all the latest mods I have done, but I have been 11.80's N/A. Should be good for 11.50's now. You can pick your own stall rating too!
I wouldn't put an A4 behind a Briggs&Stratton....
I'm pulling down 19.2mpg in Houston traffic.
I haven't been to the track since all the latest mods I have done, but I have been 11.80's N/A. Should be good for 11.50's now. You can pick your own stall rating too!
I wouldn't put an A4 behind a Briggs&Stratton....
I'm pulling down 19.2mpg in Houston traffic.
04-03-2011, 06:22 PM
#5
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If you can drive it won't....
I haven't been to the track since all the latest mods I have done, but I have been 11.80's N/A. Should be good for 11.50's now. You can pick your own stall rating too!
I wouldn't put an A4 behind a Briggs&Stratton....
I'm pulling down 19.2mpg in Houston traffic.
I haven't been to the track since all the latest mods I have done, but I have been 11.80's N/A. Should be good for 11.50's now. You can pick your own stall rating too!
I wouldn't put an A4 behind a Briggs&Stratton....
I'm pulling down 19.2mpg in Houston traffic.
04-03-2011, 08:02 PM
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Well, I bought the truck from turbogibbs with the motor that is in it. I just changed the cam in it. It is a 11.5 to 1 370 with H-beams and I believe Diamond pop ups. Ported L92's with aftermarket valves, springs, retainers. L76 intake, LS3 throttle body, TSP F-body headers, SD tuned by me, RAM HD clutch, FIDANZA flywheel, 5 lug conversion by me, 5.13 gears, and a heavy right foot.
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04-10-2011, 10:38 PM
#9
go for the swap, i did it and it all bolts in, all you need is to call chevy parts house, and give them the part numbers you need for the cross member, clutch pedal and master cylinder assembly, and hydraulic lines, all the rest is the same, then call dickey scoggins and tell them you need an ls7 clutch ls2 fly wheel and pressure plate and it thats about it, once you wear the trans out just call jason at texas drive-train performance, and he can make it hold lots of power, mine has upgraded shafts and yoke, billet keys, steel shift forks, heat treated gears and some other stuff i have 456 gears in the rear and with the cam i have it is kinda hard to drive under 70 in 6th, i would go with 488 out of a tahoe or maybe a little more, but i get alot better mpgs i drive 80 miles a day with my setup as a daily driver and i use to get like 17-20 now i get 22-28 because i drive 75mph at 1750rpms, and its fun to drive everyday, it was really hard to drive with stock 323 gears especially in traffic, if you have a one wheel peel you will need a true track at least, if you have an aluminum drive shaft, you are going to need to call precision shaft technologies, to get a stronger shaft, they are good on pricing as well, and if you need part numbers or any help just ask, i thought it was goin to be hard but it was really easy there are a few things that you wont have, cruise control, and reverse lights, but theres a fix for reverse lights i just havent cared enough to wire them up hopefully this helps you figure out what you want to do, it cost the same to build a 4l60e that can hold the power and doing a transmission tune as it does to swap to a t56 and build it
if not phoenix transmission is a world wide trans builder and 4l60e are one of their specialties
if not phoenix transmission is a world wide trans builder and 4l60e are one of their specialties
04-10-2011, 11:19 PM
#10
If you can drive it won't....
I haven't been to the track since all the latest mods I have done, but I have been 11.80's N/A. Should be good for 11.50's now. You can pick your own stall rating too!
I wouldn't put an A4 behind a Briggs&Stratton....
I'm pulling down 19.2mpg in Houston traffic.
... I bought the truck from turbogibbs with the motor that is in it. I just changed the cam in it. It is a 11.5 to 1 370 with H-beams and I believe Diamond pop ups. Ported L92's with aftermarket valves, springs, retainers. L76 intake, LS3 throttle body, TSP F-body headers, SD tuned by me, RAM HD clutch, FIDANZA flywheel, 5 lug conversion by me, 5.13 gears, and a heavy right foot.
I haven't been to the track since all the latest mods I have done, but I have been 11.80's N/A. Should be good for 11.50's now. You can pick your own stall rating too!
I wouldn't put an A4 behind a Briggs&Stratton....
I'm pulling down 19.2mpg in Houston traffic.
... I bought the truck from turbogibbs with the motor that is in it. I just changed the cam in it. It is a 11.5 to 1 370 with H-beams and I believe Diamond pop ups. Ported L92's with aftermarket valves, springs, retainers. L76 intake, LS3 throttle body, TSP F-body headers, SD tuned by me, RAM HD clutch, FIDANZA flywheel, 5 lug conversion by me, 5.13 gears, and a heavy right foot.
It's when I read MPG like these I want a 6M. I already know it'd be a blast to drive.
OP, consistency is easier for the avg. person w/. an auto; but it sure wouldn't be as fun.
You're hittin the skinny pedal & getting that MPG, or is that drivin like a granny?
go for the swap, i did it and it all bolts in, all you need is to call chevy parts house, and give them the part numbers you need for the cross member, clutch pedal and master cylinder assembly, and hydraulic lines, all the rest is the same, then call dickey scoggins and tell them you need an ls7 clutch ls2 fly wheel and pressure plate and it thats about it, once you wear the trans out just call jason at texas drive-train performance, and he can make it hold lots of power, mine has upgraded shafts and yoke, billet keys, steel shift forks, heat treated gears and some other stuff i have 456 gears in the rear and with the cam i have it is kinda hard to drive under 70 in 6th, i would go with 488 out of a tahoe or maybe a little more, but i get alot better mpgs i drive 80 miles a day with my setup as a daily driver and i use to get like 17-20 now i get 22-28 because i drive 75mph at 1750rpms, and its fun to drive everyday, it was really hard to drive with stock 323 gears especially in traffic, if you have a one wheel peel you will need a true track at least, if you have an aluminum drive shaft, you are going to need to call precision shaft technologies, to get a stronger shaft, they are good on pricing as well, and if you need part numbers or any help just ask, i thought it was goin to be hard but it was really easy there are a few things that you wont have, cruise control, and reverse lights, but theres a fix for reverse lights i just havent cared enough to wire them up hopefully this helps you figure out what you want to do, it cost the same to build a 4l60e that can hold the power and doing a transmission tune as it does to swap to a t56 and build it. ...
I'm curious how much ya spent on your conversion? Cause it sounds like ya went from auto-stick.
How much addt'l money were parts from TX drive-train performance?
An extra 5-8mpg would be the **** like yours is gettin .
Is there a way to get cruise control back?
I'd thought of doin this before I got the FLT, & still love hearing of anyone doin a swap to a T56. I think it just worried me a bit, not sure if it was the cost of conversion or the actual conversion.
Plus, it always seemed guys on PT w/. 6M were destroying rearends & driveshafts left & right.
Last edited by fastnblu; 04-10-2011 at 11:34 PM.