Suburban K2500 -->>>> AWD
#1
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Suburban K2500 -->>>> AWD
I have a 95 GMC Suburban that I'm in the middle of doing a LQ4 6.0 swap with Twin Turbos. Since it is 2500 it already has a 4L80E so that's not a problem, I have a 14 Bolt rear which isn't a problem. My major problem would be traction and I don't get any kicks off big long burnouts. Running it in 4wd is obviously no fix and on 22s there aren't a huge choice of sticky tires out there.
SO, I started with trying to do assemble an AWD setup in my truck. I got my hands on a NVG149 which I will send the input gear out to be machined to accept the 80E outputshaft. Where I run in to a wall is what to do with the front diff. Originally I had planned to swap a Denali or Silverado SS front diff in and put 4:10s in there to match the rear and be set. I looked into this a little further today and see the mounting points on the passenger side are a bit different on my 2500 than the 1500 NBS AWD front diff.
Any one have any links to some more info on a swap like this? I really hate to can this and sell off the NVG149 and stick with the original 4wd system.
SO, I started with trying to do assemble an AWD setup in my truck. I got my hands on a NVG149 which I will send the input gear out to be machined to accept the 80E outputshaft. Where I run in to a wall is what to do with the front diff. Originally I had planned to swap a Denali or Silverado SS front diff in and put 4:10s in there to match the rear and be set. I looked into this a little further today and see the mounting points on the passenger side are a bit different on my 2500 than the 1500 NBS AWD front diff.
Any one have any links to some more info on a swap like this? I really hate to can this and sell off the NVG149 and stick with the original 4wd system.
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
While I would prefer to have the solid one-piece passenger side axle from an AWD axle assembly, I can understand where you’re running into a brick wall with the differences between the 2500’s 9.25” and the 1500’s smaller 8.25” IFS differential. Maybe not what I would consider ideal, but several members that have converted their 1500’s to AWD have resorted to locking in their front differential and then unplugging the actuator on the housing allowing it to stay locked into position. They report no issues when doing it in this manner, so it may be one of your only options. Another possible option, but one I doubt is viable on the surface is the passenger side axle from an H2. They use the 9.25” IFS differential and while I doubt they use the same length components, most likely having a different track width, if indeed the axle is longer than what you need, you could quite possibly have it cut down and re-splined. Then all you would have to do is build a simple block-off plate for the actuator.
I really see no reason for you to have to give up on your idea of installing likely the best full-size truck AWD transfer-case ever developed.
Good Luck…..
Edit – It seems like I recall that some of the ¾ Ton SUV’s still used the smaller 8.25” IFS instead of the larger units of the trucks. If this is the case with your rig, while you may not be able to use the axle and tube assembly due to the different mounting configuration, you may still get lucky with the overall axle length to be able to use one of the one-piece axles in your housing. If you are in fact able to do so, one other thing to keep in the back of your mind is the earlier 4WD unit’s side gears weren’t cut for the retainer ring that secures the axles. You can swap out the side gears from a later model, but you would have to disassemble the case to do so.
I really see no reason for you to have to give up on your idea of installing likely the best full-size truck AWD transfer-case ever developed.
Good Luck…..
Edit – It seems like I recall that some of the ¾ Ton SUV’s still used the smaller 8.25” IFS instead of the larger units of the trucks. If this is the case with your rig, while you may not be able to use the axle and tube assembly due to the different mounting configuration, you may still get lucky with the overall axle length to be able to use one of the one-piece axles in your housing. If you are in fact able to do so, one other thing to keep in the back of your mind is the earlier 4WD unit’s side gears weren’t cut for the retainer ring that secures the axles. You can swap out the side gears from a later model, but you would have to disassemble the case to do so.
Last edited by 1Bear; 02-02-2014 at 03:57 PM. Reason: additional info
#5
11 sec. Truck Mod
iTrader: (12)
Yeah this ^^^^ , since you have 4:10s already just lock the front diff .
1Bear always has great advice.
But really if you don't go AWD, 4x4 is perfect also , that's what I rock in my truck , love my traction button . Never any issues with it at all . Plus I can do burnouts in 2 wheel as well as 4 wheel
1Bear always has great advice.
But really if you don't go AWD, 4x4 is perfect also , that's what I rock in my truck , love my traction button . Never any issues with it at all . Plus I can do burnouts in 2 wheel as well as 4 wheel
#6
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Yeah this ^^^^ , since you have 4:10s already just lock the front diff .
1Bear always has great advice.
But really if you don't go AWD, 4x4 is perfect also , that's what I rock in my truck , love my traction button . Never any issues with it at all . Plus I can do burnouts in 2 wheel as well as 4 wheel
1Bear always has great advice.
But really if you don't go AWD, 4x4 is perfect also , that's what I rock in my truck , love my traction button . Never any issues with it at all . Plus I can do burnouts in 2 wheel as well as 4 wheel