GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

Stick with 80E or go to something else?

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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by DrX
Can a bad TCC lead to a direct clutch failure or vice versa?
A bad TCC could plug up the pump, then the lower pressure could burn the directs...or any other gear also.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 02:49 PM
  #32  
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Pressure still looked good on the gauge I have wired in. The theory I read on another site was that the TCC not holding would cause frequent downshifts from 4th to 3rd, thereby killing the direct clutch??
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 03:01 PM
  #33  
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Even though you're not locking the TCC at WOT, you are putting an incredible amount of torque through it, even at low throttle angles. You probably see boost at 15-20% TPS I'd guess.

I think I'd go to a multi-disc converter for your setup, and still not lock it at WOT.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 03:03 PM
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An old-timer told me that he had a sure-fire way to end my transmission problems. I was all ears.....

"Put skinny tires on it" he said.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 06:24 PM
  #35  
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so funny , i had the exact same thign happen to me , the pump seized to the yank , imo yank is good at yanking out and staying out imo. i had my yank lockup take a **** and was blamed by yank for doing wot lockups whichi is complete bs. i will never own another yank pos in my life . they dont belong behind any performance motor making anywhere near your power with their undersized stock lockup clutch , its a dam joke . what is even worse is when i lost my clutch it balloned the converter and swelled so much it pushed the crank forward and took out my lsx bottom end , it killed the thrust bearing and is the reason my truck is down at the momment , i went with a circle d and it looks up like its supposed to . no rpms slipping like the yank . the yank would lock up under normal cruise and with the cruise control on it would push through the converter lockup clutch with no boost but by then it was gone , imo rebuild your 80e , get the big dog circle d verter and be done , imo .

our trucks weigh similar while maintaining 4wd/awd and make similar torque, ill be in the 1400lb range soon and have confidence in my 80e taking the abuse with this converter .
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 06:30 PM
  #36  
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oh and fluch and fluxh your system , it put so much metal debris in my cooler and lines i just eliminated the radiator trans cooler and flushed the trucool 40k about 5 times which is the cooler you should be running , imo its the only trans cooler to consider where your at now . i run 150 avg on hot days with it only and the big dog circle d 3k stall
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 07:42 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
I think I'd go to a multi-disc converter for your setup, and still not lock it at WOT.
Had a PI Vig triple disc in there 2 trans rebuilds ago.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 11:06 PM
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Be sure to change the TCC soleniod before you put it back together. Trash in one of those will make you go crazy trying to chase issues that aren't there. Ask me how I know. Use only ACDelco brand.
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 04:40 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Jake's Performance
You probably need to address the 3rd gear circuit but not knowing how it's setup hydraulically I would be guessing.
So, do those direct clutches look like they should have been holding if there was adequate pressure to the piston?

Not sure about this wear mark on the intermediate clutch roller retainer when I flipped the direct drum over??



Also looking at the ridge on the forward end of the outside of the direct drum.... is this normal?

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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DrX
So, do those direct clutches look like they should have been holding if there was adequate pressure to the piston?

Not sure about this wear mark on the intermediate clutch roller retainer when I flipped the direct drum over??



Also looking at the ridge on the forward end of the outside of the direct drum.... is this normal?

Those directs steels are cooked, so something wasn't holding. What kind of line pressure do you have?
How is the valve body setup?

I see that type of failure all the time, even in "built" 4L80E's.

You have a Super Drum, so I'll guess it has other upgraded hard parts too. I'll also guess it has near stock hydraulics.
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