so nobody has had issues with the 6l80
09-03-2013, 10:22 PM
#41
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So instead of the damm black magic voodoo that surrounds tuning the 6L80 can some of the guys and pros here who really know how to tune these things put together a precise comprehensive tweak list and what values are skewed to be tweaked. A real touch this table and insert x values here and don't breathe on this table type deal.
I can tune a 4L60 inside and out but I really want to know what to tune on these in order to have a bad *** shifting stone reliable tranny.
I'd kill to have something like this just so I could look at what parameters were tweaked when my truck was tuned. Mine is waaay better but there are still a few little things I'd like done
I can tune a 4L60 inside and out but I really want to know what to tune on these in order to have a bad *** shifting stone reliable tranny.
I'd kill to have something like this just so I could look at what parameters were tweaked when my truck was tuned. Mine is waaay better but there are still a few little things I'd like done
09-04-2013, 01:29 PM
#42
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There is a wide variety of differences that can be had on the 6l series. you can make a drag only tune that will rip the yoke off the diff, or you can make it shift like stock, but hammer the tires in any gear at wot.
At part throttle i set mine to 75% total tm. 50% at wot, it still pulled timing on the shifts and still hit the tires pretty good on the 1-2, 2-3 shift. under the race or tow/haul mode, it was even firmer on the shifts where if any sort of wheel spin in first was seen, it would hit 2nd and blow the tires off and hit third and do the same thing till i lifted. at the track however, it hooked every time, just not the street.
the biggest thing i see wrong is people looking at the tuning school 6l write up and thinking this is fine. not even close. it will **** the trans. I have seen in first hand. power plays a big role in the trans tune and what tables are adjusted. surprisingly enough, not as many of them are changed, and i personally think tm is required due to the nature of the clutch to clutch design.
there is a fine line on shift times where it becomes too fast for the mechanics of the trans to handle it. remember. you are moving a rotating mass at X rpm. instant is not going to happen. pressures come into play as well before, during, and after the shift. most people forget this aspect. oncoming and off going are just as important as the base pressure.
At part throttle i set mine to 75% total tm. 50% at wot, it still pulled timing on the shifts and still hit the tires pretty good on the 1-2, 2-3 shift. under the race or tow/haul mode, it was even firmer on the shifts where if any sort of wheel spin in first was seen, it would hit 2nd and blow the tires off and hit third and do the same thing till i lifted. at the track however, it hooked every time, just not the street.
the biggest thing i see wrong is people looking at the tuning school 6l write up and thinking this is fine. not even close. it will **** the trans. I have seen in first hand. power plays a big role in the trans tune and what tables are adjusted. surprisingly enough, not as many of them are changed, and i personally think tm is required due to the nature of the clutch to clutch design.
there is a fine line on shift times where it becomes too fast for the mechanics of the trans to handle it. remember. you are moving a rotating mass at X rpm. instant is not going to happen. pressures come into play as well before, during, and after the shift. most people forget this aspect. oncoming and off going are just as important as the base pressure.
09-08-2013, 06:18 PM
#43
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It's pretty harsh on shifts on WOT. Spins the 35's on the 2-3 shift.
But normal driving it shifts good & crisp.
They say if you leave the wave plate in it will make the shift firmness go down some. So there are options. Mine is out and I like it. I am concerned still about how much weight and power I'm going to throw at it but time will tell!
But normal driving it shifts good & crisp.
They say if you leave the wave plate in it will make the shift firmness go down some. So there are options. Mine is out and I like it. I am concerned still about how much weight and power I'm going to throw at it but time will tell!
09-20-2013, 01:16 AM
#44
There is a wide variety of differences that can be had on the 6l series. you can make a drag only tune that will rip the yoke off the diff, or you can make it shift like stock, but hammer the tires in any gear at wot.
At part throttle i set mine to 75% total tm. 50% at wot, it still pulled timing on the shifts and still hit the tires pretty good on the 1-2, 2-3 shift. under the race or tow/haul mode, it was even firmer on the shifts where if any sort of wheel spin in first was seen, it would hit 2nd and blow the tires off and hit third and do the same thing till i lifted. at the track however, it hooked every time, just not the street.
the biggest thing i see wrong is people looking at the tuning school 6l write up and thinking this is fine. not even close. it will **** the trans. I have seen in first hand. power plays a big role in the trans tune and what tables are adjusted. surprisingly enough, not as many of them are changed, and i personally think tm is required due to the nature of the clutch to clutch design.
there is a fine line on shift times where it becomes too fast for the mechanics of the trans to handle it. remember. you are moving a rotating mass at X rpm. instant is not going to happen. pressures come into play as well before, during, and after the shift. most people forget this aspect. oncoming and off going are just as important as the base pressure.
At part throttle i set mine to 75% total tm. 50% at wot, it still pulled timing on the shifts and still hit the tires pretty good on the 1-2, 2-3 shift. under the race or tow/haul mode, it was even firmer on the shifts where if any sort of wheel spin in first was seen, it would hit 2nd and blow the tires off and hit third and do the same thing till i lifted. at the track however, it hooked every time, just not the street.
the biggest thing i see wrong is people looking at the tuning school 6l write up and thinking this is fine. not even close. it will **** the trans. I have seen in first hand. power plays a big role in the trans tune and what tables are adjusted. surprisingly enough, not as many of them are changed, and i personally think tm is required due to the nature of the clutch to clutch design.
there is a fine line on shift times where it becomes too fast for the mechanics of the trans to handle it. remember. you are moving a rotating mass at X rpm. instant is not going to happen. pressures come into play as well before, during, and after the shift. most people forget this aspect. oncoming and off going are just as important as the base pressure.
THIS. The 6L80/90 is not an independent protocol operation transmission like the 4L's. It takes its reading from specific tables and readings from the ECM. Which is why a universal stand alone system is quite a ways off from being available. It took me YEARS to figure out that I had to first properly tune the ECM before I could tune the TCM. This is why there is not going to be a simple change this, add 5% to that advice for 'fixing' any given 6L80/90 problem.Having figured that out, I've been working on a spreadsheet the past 4 months to help me 'auto' tune 6L80/90 regardless of tire size, axle ratio, etc. Guys have to realize there are THOUSANDS of cell references that the computers (ECM and TCM) reference in nano seconds. So the continuity, direction AND values of the cells of a given table MUST all work together or you can and will have some bizarre and/or unpredictably frustrating driveability issues. I am still learning everyday when the tranny does something I don't like....I'm **** like that.
That said...the fact that I don't know just how much is too much/little in terms of timing the clutches and the pressures scares the crap out of me. My gauge is driveability (striking a fine balance of firm and soft shifts) and monitoring the trans fluid.
06-16-2018, 08:56 AM
#45
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6l80 base tune set up specs--HELP!
Hoping to get some 6L tune help on my LS3/6L set up in my 72 Camaro. The engine/trans combo was a pull out from a 2014 Chevy SS with 14K miles. Engine has been kept stock except for headers. Speartech set up the ECM to work on the Camaro and the engine is tuned and runs very well (may need some tweaks after reading the thread and better understanding the interplay btw ECM and TCM). My trans is experiencing a lot of the same issues listed in this thread, it's hesitating, searching for a place to live at 40-50 MPH, boggin down here and there.
I"m not a tuner yet, and I've had a tune on it from a local shop that I really like, but we are both struggling to solve these trans issues. After reading this thread, an remembering what the tuner guy told me, he is probably taking out TM and trying to solve the searching issues by programming it not to shift into 6th until about 57 MPH. Helps but doesn't resolve it t my satisfaction and other intermittent boggin down, etc. still remain.
If anyone has a base type of TM tune or other key parameters we could use a restart point, that would be greatly appreciated. I selected this trans specifically for my build as I know it was built to handle some serious power and performance but to this point it's been somewhat disappointing. Engine is putting out about 400 HP to the rear on the dyno, but I want to get this trans dialed in better and get some miles on it before thinking about any power upgrades in the future.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
I"m not a tuner yet, and I've had a tune on it from a local shop that I really like, but we are both struggling to solve these trans issues. After reading this thread, an remembering what the tuner guy told me, he is probably taking out TM and trying to solve the searching issues by programming it not to shift into 6th until about 57 MPH. Helps but doesn't resolve it t my satisfaction and other intermittent boggin down, etc. still remain.
If anyone has a base type of TM tune or other key parameters we could use a restart point, that would be greatly appreciated. I selected this trans specifically for my build as I know it was built to handle some serious power and performance but to this point it's been somewhat disappointing. Engine is putting out about 400 HP to the rear on the dyno, but I want to get this trans dialed in better and get some miles on it before thinking about any power upgrades in the future.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
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