I ran my stock stuff with fresh stock size U joints well past 500hp. The two piece steel setup is t near as problematic as the 1 piece or the newer aluminum shafts. This was my 2000 ECSB turbo truck.

 

Should I just replace my u joints on my stock steal DS on my rcsb?

 

nice to see actual results. May look into getting 1350 ends put on and testing it out. My build should make 700-800 to the crank if everything turns out right.

 

if its aluminum I would have a 3" dom steel shaft made with 1350 joints. They arent bad for rcsb. The ecsb is to long for a one piece steel. *edit just seen you said steel if its steel one piece you are probably good for decent power #s like it is

 

Texas driveshafts will tell you what the aluminum is rated for...... Give them your gear ratio and tire size and they'll let you know. Not sure what the formula is but mine was rated for 110mph. 31.5" tires/ 4.56 gears with a 4L80. I have a crew cab short box 2500. The shaft is a looong 1 piece aluminum.

 

You should be plenty good with 1350 yokes and good fresh sealed U joints. (Greasable U joints normally fail at the grease fitting hole, so don't go that route) probably wouldn't hurt to have that thing balanced while you're at it.

 

Call me an idiot, but I have a ECLB. Had a stock 2 piece driveshaft, went to a 2 piece driveshaft that I'll call a hybrid.......steel front section and aluminum rear section. Since rear shaft is longer, went with aluminum since it had a higher critical speed per length than steel. 1350 joints. 4.30 rear with 4l80. Makes 630rwhp. Dynoed in 3rd gear. No issues with shaft. PST here in FL did the driveshaft. Was roughly $800.

 

Nice! Is the front shaft slip joint stock spline size?

 

That looks like the same spline that was on mine, way beefier than stock.

 

Definitely bigger than the stock slip joint. Unsure of spline count.