bbowerman

Hey guys I'm building a 2001 turbo ecsb silverado.
What are you high hp ecsb guys (600+hp)running for a driveshaft. Mine came with a 2 piece from the factory.

terravast4

iTrader: (25)

driveshaft specialists in tx. 5" dia driveshaft

bbowerman

Thats the route I was going to take, but I'm worried about the speed rating of the 1 piece aluminum being that long. I know it will hold the hp And tq but can it spin to 150~160mph with a 3.73 gear although it won't see speeds that high 99.9% of the time. also is anyone on here running one?

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

the 1 piece is too long

the stock shafts are very strong, the failure point are the stock u joints.

bbowerman

this is what ive been reading up on. Wonder if one could get away with having 1350 ends installed on the stocker? I hear the stub off the first shaft is a weak point also. not in these trucks specifically but in general.

xr650jkallen

Is there a known breaking point with the stock u joints? Or just randomly breaking. I have the same shaft and have had my truck to about 5500rpm in 3rd with no vibration, but I still feel a little sketchy pushing it

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

I snapped mine in half, but in my opinion, it was the U joint exploding that led to the shaft failure.

That being said, I upgraded it to a 2 pc. 3.5" steel with spicer solid 1350s. Guy building it laughed when I said i need a shaft to hold 1000.

bbowerman

I've had mine shift from 3rd into od downhill before i 4l80 swapped it and i was moving pretty fast, had no vibration but that was a cam and bolt ons its turbo now so thats a little more stress plus I was probably on borrowed time at that point.

bbowerman

what did that cost if you dont mind me asking. also what does the stub shaft and carrier bearing look like on that one compared to the oem?

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

It was right at $1000 for everything including billet yokes for the rear end and trans