Realistically if I was going for 700 wheel I'd go to an 80. 500-600 a built 60 should be more than comfy behind. And it depends on the truck too. A crew cab, ext, single cab... 2 or 4 wheel drive... Weight?

I'm gonna leave this one alone for a bit and then upgrade to a 15 so no sense in trying to mod more just to lose more money in the final outcome.


*** another mother ****** moment. I was checking stuff out and re checking the bell housing bolts. Driver side lower middle had the Reg bolt I talked about earlier. It was tight but when i looked at it closely , I noticed it was bottoming out on the block and not tight against the hell housing. So I pulled the stud from the driver bottom and swapped them. Ok, good catch.

Go to toss in the starter and it's not lineing up. It's being a bitch. Well that 2nd Reg bolt was in the same spot on the passenger side of the truck and was sticking out the back of the block just enough to touch the starter keeping it from lining up correctly. So I swapped it w a stud and everything worked.

Moral of the story, the Reg bolt go on the bottom of the bell housing. Use the studs everywhere else.

 

ill be firing it today after work. I have everything installed and ready.

Transbuilderguy has detailed instructions to follow for start up and 500 mile break in.

Cant wait to rip this **** again

 

Awesome!!

Can you post the break in procedure? I'm not sure how to break in mine since I'm the dummy building it.

 

ehhhh with respect to Robert, you should ask him for his break in procedure. I'm paying for his knowledge and experience.

If he would like to share, that is for him. I dont wanna step on toes.

Its pretty much common sense stuff

 

Everything works and no leaks. It def feels different from when I drove it last but I wanna say mostly from me driving my beater the last month.

It took over 3 gallons of fluid. Converter, tru cool 40k, stock cooler in radiator and the huge deep aluminum pan.

Here's some pics. You can see the pan is higher than the frame. My wg and cutout is extremely close to the pan but it all fit

 

Glad to see it back together!
I just had mine out for a stuck valve, and new 3-4 clutches.
Just shows these can hold up.

 

290 miles. I have another 200 then I'll hammer down and run over to new era performance for a check on the tune. All is well so far. The FTI converter seems to be the same as my yank tt3000 just driving around.

 

Trans is solid. Feels great and just under 500 miles on the clock. I have an hour drive to New Era Performance which will put me over the 500 mile break in. Im gonna have Mike double check the tune. Last night I tossed some new plugs in it and replaced the air filter.

br7 were .026 stock but I opened them up to .028. My old plugs looked great for being a year old. Cant wait to do some WOT pulls and 4x4 burnouts.

 

4x4 Burnouts? You tie your truck to a tree first?

How does the front diff hold up on dry pavement with 4x4 launches? Do you throw it in 2wd when you get up to speed? Leave it in auto mode?

 

it spins all four pretty good.

I leave it in 4x4 until I let out of the throttle. Which is usually 110 mph.

Mike made some small tweaks and the truck is back to being amazing. I am very happy with the outcome.

Transbuilderguy said my yank was going to cost more to fix than just replace with a brand new FTI converter ( the same one that I have in my truck now ). Its description is exactly the same as the Yank tt3000 I took out and it acts the same when cruising and WOT. So when that arrives Ill be selling a brand new FTI 4L60E 2600 stall converter.