GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

Replacing the transmission - tips, tricks, how to's???

Old Jan 30, 2007 | 06:44 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
I have a 20" 3/8 extension that I use along with a 6-8" with a wiggle joint and a deep 15mm and it pops right on out. Pulling the intake is alot of extra work. Pulling the intake is an extra hour worth of work. Doing it the way I described you can have the trans swapped in about 2 hours, piece of cake, but then again I ahve done a few

well hell, "MR. EXPERIENCE" - I'll PM you my address and you can be here Saturday morning sharp to help out
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 06:53 PM
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If you were closer I would help, I was just in Houston this last weekend
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
If you were closer I would help, I was just in Houston this last weekend

I'm only 2hours 15 mins from Austin

Last weekend was the gear install/replacement
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Colby 04
I'm only 2hours 15 mins from Austin

Last weekend was the gear install/replacement


Tranny jack, Tranny jack, Tranny jack, Tranny jack, Tranny jack. The one in the link ought to do nicely.

Remember I helped Beau with his, even on the day when the rest of the chuckleheads weren't there. Just me, him, and some broke stuff on his truck like always. Once he got the trans jack life got a hella easier.

What time you getting started?
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by meatwad
Tranny jack, Tranny jack, Tranny jack, Tranny jack, Tranny jack. The one in the link ought to do nicely.

Remember I helped Beau with his, even on the day when the rest of the chuckleheads weren't there. Just me, him, and some broke stuff on his truck like always. Once he got the trans jack life got a hella easier.

What time you getting started?
Probably 9 or 10 in the morning. You want to assist?
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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Hey I'm putting mine in this weekend too. I sure hope I have some help show up.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 10:21 PM
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If your driveshaft has a vented yoke, make sure you pull the tailhousing from the old unit and pull the output shaft seal off and put it on the new tranny.

(this post ought to stir up some )

Practice makes perfect on the tranny swap. I'm down to 2 hours from drive in to drive out.
When you go to disconnect the wiring harness, heat the connections up with a blow dryer or a very low set heat shrink gun. This will make the glue in the connections gooey and keep you from tearing up the plastic connectors.
Don't forget a set of Torx* bits. You'll need them when you go to pull the bracket for the safety switch.
Wish I was there to help
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 12:38 AM
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I was thinking the same thing. I dont want to put my heads and intake back on the motor untill I put the trans in. It would be alot easier this way. The motor tilts really easy this way, for alignment of the trans. Good info, on this tread. Very good question, this should help out alot when guys have more time than money and are thinking of swaping the trans there self.
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Colby 04
huh? do you mean vehicle speed sensor?


The upper bellhousing bolt was a bitch without the intake, I'm sure it's going to be damn-near impossible with the intake.

the neutral safety switch is that board with the plugs in it behind the shift stud.....
the speed sensor is in the tail shaft. I forgot to add that in my directions, my bad dude.
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by silver-mod-o
the neutral safety switch is that board with the plugs in it behind the shift stud.....
the speed sensor is in the tail shaft. I forgot to add that in my directions, my bad dude.

I had no idea they put the neutral safety switch down there...I thought in was in the steering column like the old days.


Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
When you go to disconnect the wiring harness, heat the connections up with a blow dryer or a very low set heat shrink gun. This will make the glue in the connections gooey and keep you from tearing up the plastic connectors.
can you elaborate on this a little more? GM "glues" that connection?
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