TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

i have a tahoe with stock 4link with panhard bar. my pan hard bar hits my exhaust do to it being 4"(for turbo). it only hit with hard bumps. i was thinking about making a tubular one for. what type of tubing could i use for this? also my lower links to the axle are c channel as in not boxed. and the uppers look like solid steel piece but looks weak. would i/could i benifit in going with tubular arms with hime(spelling) joint? i know its a tahoe but i want to make it alittle more stable. and i think it might help loose some wieght. and when this thing luanches it twist hard what can i do to help it stop twisting so much?

InchUp

iTrader: (2)

I would change just the track bar (you call it a pan-hard bar). 1.500" OD DOM tubing with 0.250" wall has worked well in past experience. I don't remember the heim joint size on either end though.

dirt track racer 81

iTrader: (45)

heim end

dirt track racer 81

iTrader: (45)

in this link are the tubes i use in my dirt track car and they take a beating, imca modified,late models and sprint cars use these same bars for their 4 links with heim ends too

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

where is the link? should i just box the bottom one and replace the top one and track bar with tube and heim ends?

dirt track racer 81

iTrader: (45)

you know it would have helped alot if i would have posted a link ya know..buy your heim ends and lock nuts with these tubes and your good to go. these are the same bars i have for my traction bars on my truck and have on my race car too..when i hit the wall at 90 mph side ways and ripped the rear end out these bars did not bend the bolts and brackets brokehttp://www.smileysracing.com/cat/vie...9fe90&pgID=545

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

those would work for uppers and lowers but not track link. mine goes from one side to the other. but i'll look around on there. going with adjustables like this for upper and lower link to replace stocker. could i use them to get more antisquat so my truck doesn't sit on its *** everytime i luanch. it doesn't help me being that i'm awd i need it tpo sit flat. i'm going to do some more reading and learning. i've never really study suspension stuff like this before. so if you have any good reads send'em to me.

InchUp

iTrader: (2)

Stiffer shocks in the rear for starters that have a slower rebound will help to slow down the squat from a dig. Other than that, the simple air bag idea from your other thread seems plausible for a cheap solution.

L7 Sierra

1 inch DOM tubing would be sufficient for most applications, but I would go as big as I could fit if your running the turbo. Most 4 links sold use that same size bar. I used 3/4 on a very light 66 mustang, and when I put it through the paces I never saw any deformation of my bars.

Also get atleast a .250 wall like inch up said.

A watts linkage may provide you with a touch more room.

Or what I would do would be to use a drop bracket to get the bar level with your rear axle or no more then 10 degrees up to the frame..

You do not need a really thick track bar since the sheer strengh of steel is high. Its your 4 link sections that can get deformed under horse power of road racing.

95 bright teal

On alot of camaros they run a poly bushing on the body side and heim on the rear end. that way it wont transfer all vibrations. unless you dont care you could do heim on both ends.
do a search on ls1tech, alot of guys made their own panhard bar, for better performance